Used 3ft bar to undo, loosen rear cradle mounts as far as you can without falling out, slowly lower jack, tank will slide out, make sure tank running on empty, leave tank half up under car, puts a bit of strain on top wiring but ok. this gives you full access to pump, using special tool "very necessary" I had to use tool with 3ft bar to get it to unlock, while holding tank from moving. Gets bit messy pulling pump, unclip hose & wiring, then basically re-install using ZL1 pump, test before putting all back together, exhaust unplugged sounds good, next job is BAP install, then oil cooler leak.
Well, ZL1 pump in, took me 5Hrs, "old boy" wasn't really pleasant but done, forgot to take photo's until putting back together, but not very good quality used old phone, not sure how to post them in post. Here's my instructions that work for me, tried as many short cuts I could fine.Jacked car as high as I could get, removed both rear wheels, jack stands on body at rear, uncliped hoses & plugs I could access including filler hose, removed exhaust, if you have mudflap moldings they need to be half unscrewed to remove exhaust, remove heat shields remove driveshaft, unclip handbrake cabling from front & bend back behind diff, used exhaust mounts to hold brake cables, using long extension undo rear fuel tank mounts but not all way, undo front fuel tank mounts all the way, unclip plastic retainers, jack diff with wood, undo front main cradle bolt,s remove.
Hi Andrew, still waiting for Whipple to arrive, it's sitting in customs in Auckland, just got to pay $1200 bucs gst to get it released. I spent all day Saturday on car, put new back end on, looks like when I bought it now, also got the urge & installed ebach swaybar kit, sits flat as roun corners now, my hoist mate got new woman in his life so pulling tank out this weekend on jack stands in shed for ZL1 pump, that will be interesting.