Rear Spindle/Knuckle Bushings
 

Who makes a improved or better than stock bushing that goes into the rear spindle/knuckle there are 3 of them toe rod, trailing arm, and LCA. There has got to be a better bushing to stabilize an prevent wheel hop in these locations.

Bmr does....that's who I bought mine from.

BMR offers a low deflection polyurethane bushing (BK006) for the outer Trailing Arms. Depending on which BMR toe rods you buy, they include either polyurethane bushings or spherical rod ends. The outer lower control arm joint is a factory spherical bearing with a dust boot on it. It's a pretty good joint, and no real reason to replace it. If you're still having wheel hop issues after replacing trailing arms and toe rods, I would consider changing out the rear upper control arm bushings. I highly suggest our new BK039 that comes with a delrin bushing already mounted in the bracket. This is about 600% easier than trying to press out the old bushing out of the factory mount brackets!!!

BMR or whiteline for the trailing arm and toe rod. Leave the stock control arm bushing alone, it's good.

I have the tie rods, trailing arms, trailing arm bushings, upper control arm bushings and cradle bushings. 0 wheel hop, 600rwhp through a M6.

do you have to drop the rear cradle to replace the upper control arm bushings (BK039 that comes with a delrin bushing already mounted in the bracket)?

No, you don't. I won't say that it's easy, but I was able to do it on my car. Just takes some "creative" use of some hand tools. It can be done. But don't expect to get a torque wrench up there to torque the bolts down. Not that I would ever advocate this…..but I just used some blue loctite and tightened the bolts down "good-n-tight".

You can do upper bushings without even loosening up the cradle?
I wouldn't even try to go through the trouble, just loosen the cradle and drop it down a couple of inches.

Loosen and drop are 2 different things.

Yes, it can be done without loosening or dropping the cradle....but like I said it's not exactly easy to get the tools up in there. You can loosen the cradle bolts up (liberally) and gain a little extra clearance up in there. Maybe even loosen the front cradle bolts and completely remove the rear. That should give you plenty of room. If doing it this way, I would suggest supporting the rear end or cradle with a floor jack at a minimum.

Yes, understand that but I've heard of people doing it without even loosening before and just wanted to clarify.

The only bushing in the rear knuckle is the rear of the trailing arm, the bushings at the lower arm and upper arm locations are actually spherical bearings and are better than upgraded bushings would be.

Upgrading the toe rod bushings there are a couple ways to go.
1. Upgraded Poly Bushings
2. Upgraded Arm with Poly Bushings
3. Upgrade to the ZL1 Toe Links that have Spherical Bearings in them from GM

Upgrading the Trailing arms you have options 1 and 2.

Those are the only items that have any relation to the knuckle.

Aside from those are the rear Upper arm bushings and the Cradle Bushings which come in 2 options.
1. Inserts that allow you to keep the OE bushings in the car.
2. Replacement Poly Bushings that replace the OE bushings.

The Full bushings provide better support, but are a bit harder to install.

If i can help with anything please let me know, i have a all of the bushings available in both Pedders and Whiteline options i believe.

Your knuckles will love you a lot more taking the 4 minutes it takes to loosen 4 cradle bolts. You will struggle with access a lot longer than 4 minutes by not touching them.

That's why I said just loosen the bolts up, not worth the hassle not to.