Dynomat + Hurst shifter (with pics)
 

Incase anyone was wondering where you put the dynomat for the Hurst shifter, I took some pictures. Hopefully they are helpful.

Some back story first. Initially, I installed the Hurst Billet shifter and the rattling was pretty damn bad. I can hear it even with AM radio on. So I used the factory knob adaptor and factory shift knob instead and all the rattling went away. IMO, the reason why it rattles is because the Hurst stick has no weight to it so it transmit all the transmission vibrations easily. If you actually look at the design of the factory shifter, you can see that they added much needed weight on the stick itself and also the knob to mask this noise.

So this morning, I decided to use the supplied dynomat to see if it will fix the problem. The instructions says to not install the kit unless you absolutely need to. For some reason, the tone of the instruction seems like it will affect the performance of the short shifter. Well, I can tell you that I noticed no difference in performance at all. It shifts exactly the same as it did without dynomat. However, I did want to use as little as possible. So I put a piece of dynomat on, then put the boot back on and took it for a spin. I wasn't happy with the vibration still so I jacked the car up again and added another piece until I felt that the vibration was acceptable. I had to take off the boot and put it on FOUR times....so needless to say I'm a pro at it now and can get the boot on in under 3 minutes.:sm0:

The end result was that I had to use ALL of the dynomat and it still left some rattling. But I can safely say that it reduced it by at least 60-70%. I can live with that. I'm sure that I can get it reduced much more if I used the supplied neoprene pieces in the pictures below, but I wasn't comfortable with the fact that the bolts may loosen overtime by the rattling and then backing out. If I do decide to use them later, I can do it from inside the car so it will be quite easy. My suggestion is to use ALL the dynomat and not try and experiment like me because I ended up having to use all of it anyways and wasted a lot of time.

So here are the pictures as promised.


Here are the dynomat. They come in big pieces on the left. I cut them to smaller pieces on the right. When you install them, you want to make sure you press them into all the nooks so that it gets a good seal. They soften up from the warmth of your hand. But don't get them too warm or else the paperbacking is a pain in the ass to take off.

http://i43.tinypic.com/dr4j1z.jpg


I put the first piece on the rod on top of the C Clip assembly as seen here.

http://i42.tinypic.com/23k44z7.jpg

The second piece went onto the rod that extends from the FRONT of the car to the shifter rod that is attached by the pin and C clips as shown here. It's a little bit hard to see from the picture but it's on the right side. There is a long rod that comes from the transmission that connects to the short shifter. You want to put a piece there.


http://i39.tinypic.com/167pl5c.jpg

The third piece went on the back of the C clip assembly close to the back of the car as shown here.

http://i43.tinypic.com/2wbwck6.jpg

The fourth piece went under the C clip assembly and wrapped upwards as shown here. It's in a fashion where it appears that the complete pin and c clip is wrapped in dynomat.

http://i44.tinypic.com/o8z3gi.jpg


The fifth and last piece goes from inside the car and around the base of the shifter as shown here.

http://i43.tinypic.com/35ic9d3.jpg


Hope this is helpful for anyone that needs to do this.

I don't remember seeing any dynomat in the box with my shifter, maybe that's why the price was so good.

They should have came in a bag. It might be in the box still under the cardboard or something. Take the box apart. If you don't have it, I heard Hurst will send you one free of charge. That's just hearsay, but worth a try.

You mentioned the weight of the stock knob vs the Hurst knob, I wonder how much a t handle or a different style shift knob would make.

That would really depends because the stock knob is HEAVY. That sucker must weight at least 3lbs or something. I wouldn't know where to even find a shift knob that heavy. And then if you compare the shifter stick with the factory one, you will notice that the factory stick has this one cylinder weight thing half way down the shaft. the Hurst doesn't have this so it transmit even more.

Shifter install
 

Yesterday I installed this shifter on my 2012 LT1 RS and put Dynamat everywhere the instructions said and I used the Hurst stick and have no rattle at all. Although I have a stainless steel ball that I had made and it is pretty heavy. I love the way it shifts very positive , the only issue I had installing it was disingaging the centering springs on the V6 model to remove the factory shifter was a pain. I didnt like the factory shifter at all it was too rubbery. Nice post, thanks for posting all of the good information. Scooter6

Nice Write up and thanks for the good pictures. Will help alot.

You can call for the dynomatt. I got my shifter from a seller on the forumn for cheep and it didn't come. I gave them a call and I had by the end of the week.

I've got a audio shop I do some business with, I was going to see if they had some scraps I could have, if I need it. Thanks though.

Any suggestion on how to put the boot back on?

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203561 I have yet to install mine, but here you go.

Wish I was there to help you out. It's really easy after you understand the "concept" of it. But try to work around the rim of the boot and put them on a little at a time. I can do it under 3 minutes now after having done it so many times. Taking out the silver shield that covers the drive shaft might help a little bit. Good luck!

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