This thread is for discussing 1/4 mile runs, videos etc. Please discuss everything here instead of the threads with the actual times posted.

Take it to the strip guys. Mine here in INDY costs 15 dollars to run your vehicle, with all the runs that you can make in one night.!!! 15 dollars!:confused0068::confused0068::confused0068: No cops, all legal, with emergency crews on site. You can't get any better than that.

And as always. Double check your tires before running. Remember those things that keep you attached to the road???:D

Lucas Oil Raceway
(Or if your in INDY and still call it the old name, IRP!:headbang:)

:popcorn:

For now the average Bone Stock 1/4 Time is 13.54. It's funny how an L99 is currently the quickest car on the Bone Stock list you know.

lol

Good info and thats not expensive at all:thumbsup:

No it's not. It's actually quite ridiculous how cheaply you can run your car to the max without having to worry about police, bad roads, traffic, and any other obstacles that you may run into while running your car illegally on the road. Everybody is there to run their cars and see how fast they can go. Hell, I've seen Volkswagens making runs out there on Tuesday nights, with chicks driving them!:confused0068::thumbsup:.

Plus, YOU GET A TIMESLIP!:happyanim:

2 more spots left on the fast list(stock catergory)...then people start to get bumped off if and when faster folks show off..woowhooooo

Got a question about trap speed...

Got my time updated on the 1/4 list and noticed my trap speed is pretty high compared to everyone else...even higher than the fastest run and I ran .6 slower?

Why? 60 ft times?? Something else?? I know the car is faster than a 13.8 but to be .6 slower and trap the same seems odd to me?

Here is the list...


1. NineBall - 13.07 @ 109.07 mph (LS3, M6)
2. Matt (tunetime) - 13.25 @ 106. 4 mph (L99, A6)
3. Foglin - 13.28 @ 106.8 mph (LS3, M6)
4.Amwellls1 - 13.31 @ 107.0 mph (LS3, M6)
5. BLT4SPD - 13.58 @ 96.34 mph (L99,A6)
6. PatrickfromMD - 13.59 @ 104.55 (L99,A6)
7. I Am Legend - 13.82 @ 106.91 mph (LS3,M6)
8. Toehead93 - 13.86 @ 102.66 mph (L99,A6)
9. Pharmd - 13.90 @ 102.3 mph ( L99, A6)
10. Mlee - 13.99 @ 103.1 mph (L99, A6)

1) Trap Speed will tell you about your HP to weight.
2) ET will tell you more about traction and your launch.

Of course ET is important to true drag racers, because the winner is the one that gets there first. However, everyone is not necessarily true drag racers in our attempt to get a power estimate. Honestly, ask 10 guys at the track "What kind of trap speed are you running?" and 8 out of 10 will answer with their ET - to one or two decimal places even. When you say, "No, no, I meant trap speed", they will fumble with a broad estimate with NO decimal places and might even have to pull a time slip out of their pocket to check. Try this question when you're at the track; it's almost funny.

THE DYNAMICS OF TRAP SPEED VS. ET

After running lots of quarter miles, it becomes clear that how well you do in the first 100 feet of the track is KEY to a good time. The last half of the track is KEY to a good speed.

Let's use an example of a stick-shift mini-pickup that on a perfect run, gets a timeslip of 19.50 seconds at 70.00 mph in the quarter.

Imagine that the light turns green, the truck moves two feet and the engine dies for three seconds. After restarting the engine, the driver proceeds to then complete a perfect pass. His time slip would show 22.50 seconds at 69.97 mph. The ET was 3.00 seconds high but the speed was almost unaffected.. why?? It's because his racetrack was 1318 feet long instead of 1320, and in those last two feet this truck usually gains an additional 0.03 mph. However, the clocks recorded the long time. My point? Much of a great ET is made by a great launch.

Now take this truck again, and the driver leaves right on the green light. However, he misses the 3-4 shift when he's at 1250 feet. He coasts for the last 70 feet while trying to find fourth gear. Now instead of accelerating another few mph in this final 70 feet of the track, he decelerates over this distance. His timeslip; 19.51 at 67.83 mph. Note how the et is almost perfect (only off by 0.01 second) but the trap speed is way off (over 2 mph slow)! On a good run, traveling that last 70 feet at an average of 69 mph, would have taken .692 seconds. At a 68 mph avg., that 70 feet takes .682 seconds. That's why his ET only varied by .01 seconds, yet the trap speed was 'way off'. My point here: the end of the track is critical to trap speed; shift rpm, missing a gear... these are the big players.

Hopefully these examples are clear. Neither of these runs are 'perfect' runs, it's just that one has an error at the start, one at the finish and the results are obvious. The start of the track is a big player in the ET, but a small player in the mph. The end of the track is a big player in the mph, but a small player the ET.

So for the casual T-Bricks member who wants to get a HP value, you don't have to buy slicks, or wish you had a limited slip differential. You don't really need to heat the tires in the waterbox, or launch with huge power braking. As long as people get their shift rpm right and don't miss a gear, even a rookie will get the appropriate trap speed for their vehicle.. but honing the perfect ET. requires being rude to a clutch, buying steeper gears or slicks.... hey, we're trying to make this recreational.

OPTIMIZING SPEED

If your goal is to get a good trap speed, what are your options? More power, of course - and less weight is obvious (but it will come out in the power calculations as no increase in power). Shift rpm chosen (auto or manual) and the time it takes you to shift (with a manual) are probably the most important tools you've got. Try different shift points to maximize your trap speed. Reduce rolling resistance by pumping up all tires to their rated pressure. Some people think that running lower pressure might help the traction in the rear, though. Of course more traction will help et, but with most street tires, running street tires within 5 psi of rated pressure will provide you with maximum traction in the first place.


REACTION TIME

The ET clocks don't start until you've actually moved around 8 inches (this is called the rollout)... so don't worry about trying to leave right on the green light. You could wait 5 seconds after the light turned green, and still get a 19.50 timeslip in our truck example above. Your timeslip does show a separate calculated time, the "Reaction Time", which in this case would be 5 seconds. That is the time from the light turning green until you rolled out of the starting zone. It's not a big thing for our discussion here.

THE LAUNCH

For the most part, a decrease in ET is accompanied by an increase in trap speed, but don't go overboard on the launch in your zest to rule the world. Just try to get smartly underway without spinning the tires much at all. Traction levels usually drop a solid 0.10 g when the tires start spinning.

**Found this article in another forum. **

Well I had a 2.4 60' time so my error was at the start. I made it down the track fine, but failed to get a great start!

Thanks...I do need work on my launches!! That was with everything off too (no T/C or competitive mode) so room to improve...and better times!

0.1 seconds in the 60' time typically corresponds to 0.2 seconds in the 1/4 mile ET, so if you can pull a 2.0, which seems reasonable, you would have a 13.2 ET.

Yep...just got to get out there and keep at it! :w00t:

I am still waiting for some times with slicks on the car.

well, after trying a few things, seems I getting my best 60's with leaving TC on and then basically just leaving just a bit above idle... consistently in the 2.1 range, with best 60' being 2.117... figured that wasn't bad with an open rear end and those big 20" wheels...