Auto trans and N20........
 

Ok it seems to me that juicing off the line with a 100 or 150 dry shot might be too much, even in stabilitrak mode, (please jump in if I am wrong here). I am thinking/wanting to juice in third gear to finish out the 1320. My system came with a "full throttle" switch to mount underneath the pedal so it activates at WOT only. Can I simply just trade out the WOT switch on the floor to a button I can activate on my own? This will eliminate the need to let off the throttle because of the auto trans to activate the N20 when I want to in third gear. Thoughts? Or who in here juices off the line with a 100 or 150 shot with good results....and in what mode? I have 295 40's in the back.

Always have traction control off when using nitrous.

Id buy a window switch and spray above 3000 rpm if you aren't comfortable with leaving off the line on the n20. If you are on street tire, chances are you wont hook. I wouldnt worry too much about the trans and nitrous use, its all in the tune. Ive seen 650hp cars on 6l80e's hold up. Don't over think it lol.

With nitrous you benefit more by activating it sooner rather than later. If you spray in the first 8th then shut off the nitrous the rest of the 1/4 you will gain more than if you start off the spray then activate after the 8th. You want to lower your 60ft times and that is what nitrous does since it gives so much tq.

This is all traction permitting though but spraying once in 3rd seems like such a waste. If you can, try spraying in first preferably at 3K or after but don't wait too long.

If you don't want to buy a window switch then don't just unhook the WOT switch and make it a push button instead keep the WOT and get a simple button and wire it into the same WOT wire so that you have to be WOT and pushing the button for the nitrous to activate. It would keep you from accidentally activating it when not WOT. Alot of people lift for a second if they lose traction or at the end and forget they are holding the button with their finger and boom.

Anyways, I used to have it come on at 3000 rpm with 555R DR's on the street or track with 200 and it would hook.

ok guys thanks. I needed to hear if it was good to juice early or late. Now how about the 150 shot dry? Too much for stock pump? I am going to try the 75 jet first, then the 100. The shop I filled my bottle at is an import shop and they raised an eyebrow at my 100 and 150 dry. Then I told them it was on an SS V8 and they were like OH, CAN WE TUNE IT ON OUR DYNO WHEN YOU GET IT HOOKED UP? So I dont know, Im gonna need someone's help before I even attempt the 150. They alreadyt want me to go wet.

Here is how I understand it and if I am wrong someone can correct me.

The stock fuel pump will get taxed regardless if it is wet or dry. If dry, the fuel pump has to supply the rails and the injectors supply more fuel to the cylinders. So you are working the pump and injectors more. If wet, you are still working the pump harder because you are getting fuel from the rail to feed the plate or nozzle but you don't have to work the injectors any harder.

Now, if you go dedicated then you will not need the pump or injectors as the fuel supply is independent.

Having said that and depending on other mods you should be ok with a 150 shot fuel wise as the stock pump should be good to about 500rwhp.

What tuning have you done to prepare for the nitrous? What fuel are you going to use?

What is your system that you bought? Sounds like the basics. I'd get a window switch that ties into the tps as well so you only spray at wot and above a certain rpm (3000). You could then have your push button for activating your nitrous after the output from the window switch, if that is what you want. You need to pull timing as well, could do it in the tune or with a timing retarder and add fuel. Might be a good idea to read up alittle on what's out there. You want to be as safe as possible. 100 shot jets in a wet plate, you should be fine if eveything is setup correctly.

Ok, first of all thanks for the replies. Helps alot. I been gone a few days, fiancee in surgery. I have a dynotune nitrous system 75-150 dry system. Plunger, solenoid, dry nozzle. Activation is a WOT switch under the pedal, with an arming toggle switch you must actvate before the pedal WOT switch will work. I plan to run 110 mixed with good old California 91 maybe 50/50. No cats, full exhaust, Big K&N intake, hypertech hand tuner. (I know its a "canned" tune nobody likes but the car runs pretty damn good with it.) So I have been told I am ok to run like I am set up with the 100 jet in and the mixed fuel. 150 I will need custom tune. Thoughts?

Your canned tune will not know to add additional fuel when spraying with your dry system or pull timing. If you had a wet system, your fuel jet would add the additional fuel. Nitrous accelerates the combustion process, you do not want any detonation. Approx 2 degrees per 50 shot needs pulled. I would not spray 100 shot on a canned tune or even a 50 shot. But you might be able to get away with a 50 shot. The higher octane gas will help, but I wouldn't risk it with out pulling timing. You can run your canned tune when not spraying, then take the time to load your nitrous tune when you want to spray. Or go with a wet system and a timing retarder and maybe your canned tune. Or the tuner can do the resistor trick in a custom tune when you want to spray. But a 100 or 150 non progressive shot on a street tire is probably going to be a handful. If you do a 150 shot, make sure your not starving for fuel. Need to play it as safe as possible, even if you do, sh!t still happens. Hope the fiancee has a fast recovery.

Agreed. I would not spray on the Hyper canned tune. Normally, it ads timing and pulls fuel.

How are you going to add fuel if on a dry shot and you are not commanding the pcm to add fuel.:iono:

Well, I am counting on the MAF to add fuel as well as 02 sensors. That is the way system is designed. I understand what you guys are saying though, thats why I am asking before spraying. Kit instructions say as long as adequate octane booster or race fuel is used, (not necesarily 100 percent), that it would be safe to spray up to 100 with no timing retard. 150 shot would require at least 2 degrees of pull. I dont think I am going to even try the small jet, (75), without first getting a A/F guage. they say the placement of the dry nozzle is key as the sustem works by the MAF picking up the shot, so I am going to position it to spray all aver it. Thing is I will have to mount the jet at the end of the air filter so the MAF will see it. K&N intake has the MAF mounted all the way to the filter end so no room to mount it for the MAF to see it. Will post a pic in a few.

Thanks for that, I wasnt worried about the trans holding up. I know im not in that power range yet.

This is the setup I have and with a good tune is perfectly safe. All things being relative.

Well we will see how it rolls out. I am starting to install shit tomorrow.