I ran 2.5 inch ducts and the duct still rubbed on the control arms. I have never heard anyone using 3 inch ducts. I'm not sure how you could even route it without having clearance problems. 2.5 inch was hard enough.

Check out Hard Brakes TI pad shields too. I have front and backs and they really seemed to help. Nothing scientific, but after doing a run I could touch my wheels by the hubs whereas before it was too hot to touch.

Started SCCA IT cars in the last 90s/early 2000s....Got asked to drive at a NASA event in the mid 2000s for a shop and found out about the the TT format. For budgetary reasons, to keep from swapping paint and to raise a family I last ran TTS. Last event was in 2007 @ Grattan. I only instruct and run HPDEs now.

The Evo below was the heaviest car I had tracked and it weighed in at 3420 with me in it, It also had the same/similar 4 pistons calipers as a Camaro and brake ducts as well....I only used ATE Super Blue fluid in it and at that last event at Gratton in 2007 I ran a 1.27.1 (before the repave).....The only NASA car faster on Saturday was the SU Shannon (1:24.x) pictured and on Sunday it was the Shannon again and then the AIX Mustang from Pauls with a 1.26.9

The point is, I used ATE Super Blue in a heavier car than your 968 with similar calipers to your 968 and the Camaro. I drove the car hard, ran faster than all of the NASA classes (SEE BELOW) that weekend with the exception of 1 SU car and 1AIX car and I had zero issues with the brakes or fluid.

Now that was 6 years ago and I have a heavier 1LE to slow down....Motul maybe in my future.

Note: the last one is a picture of your car at Grattan on the same weekend in 2007, we exchanged pleasantries as I admired your car..:nod:

I appreciate all of the feedback!~! After doing my research and having to spend money on my Harness Bars, Harness, Helmet, Hans ETC. I think I am going to start with just Upgrading pads, Cooling,Lines, and Fluid. I will give it a go at Homestead and let you all know how it worked out,.Next Upgrade will be RB 2 Piece Rotors and maybe their rebuild kit with SS Pistons

FYI: This is a pretty good site that has all of the fluids and gives a description and specs for each brake fluid.

http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid.shtml

-Matt

I've had my 1LE at 2 track days at NJMP thunderbolt so far. I have braided stainless lines, a separate clutch reservoir, and amsoil 580 degree fluid, otherwise brakes are completely stock. If I start really getting on the brakes late I get fade, but not too bad. As a little background info, I'm over 130 on the straight, and my lap times are consistent 1:40's. I'm going to try adding brake ducts more for preservation of pads/rotors than anything else because honestly, the stock setup is not that bad.

I learned a couple of items specific to the 1LE when adding brake ducts.

The air from the lower grille area is faster and cooler than the air near the fog light openings...(which is listed in a post above also)

The 1LE dust shield (aka rotor backing plates) are the same small ones used on the ZL1. (you can see this if you climb under the car or take a wheel off) This would explain why the ZL1 air duct that enter from the lower grill and dumps/directs air through the fender liners works.

I priced everything out yesterday and will be ordering the parts next week to figure out how to mount them in the SS/1LE front end.

This will require some fab work as the ducts will not match up directly to SS front end.......DIY.project thread in the future...

-Matt

Use Motul 600 and your track pad of choice. I can't believe e stock pad will hold up to serious track use.

Is a stock Brembo not an upgrade to a truly stock pad?

GM uses Ferodo HP1000 on the 1LE. Not a race pad, but much better than 97% of the stock pads out there

Did you ever install the ducts and did you use 3" or 2.5"?