HALP - need 12v remote wire in trunk.
 

It's the continuing saga of me hooking a sub up to the camaro. I settled for using a line converter to get pre-amp outputs, now I have a major snag.

There's got to be some wire I can piggyback onto in the trunk that has 12v only when powered on. Me and my brother messed with it tonight as much as we could tolerate, I even took out the BA amp and volt tested all of the harness hookups, it somehow doesn't use an accessory hookup, only power, and it was on even when the car was off.

So I need some solution that doesn't require tearing the dash apart and preferrably where the only wiring is in the trunk.

Someone help?

If you can't find a 'switched 12v' wire to tap into, you can run a externally switched 12v wire directly to the battery(like auxiliary accessories ie fog lights) that will enable you to turn on/off power power to your amp. By turning off the stereo first, then amp, you won't run into the on/off 'thump' noise going through your speakers.

I don't really know how I should do that, through the fuse box under the hood, through splicing some cable somewhere?

I would really just like to find something in the trunk to use.

I would settle for hooking it into something behind the dash, if someone could provide me with instructions for doing so.

Just route one wire from the dash main junction harness back to where you need it. The wire can probably be routed thru the center console or sides somehow.

The wire to use? Well. I don't know that look on the list.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24704

The Pink Wire should be it. Use a multimeter to test first.

Attach a 3m t-tap to it. Then connect the meter and turn the key on. You should see the juice.

Then connect a matching size 3m t-tap blade to a small gauge wire and plug into the T-Tap. Route that wire to the back.

edit:
This should only be for 5 amp or less draw if more than you'll need to setup a fused junction box.

fyi - not sure u are aware, but on the passenger side trunk behind the cover, (opposite the amp) i believe there is a fuse panel or terminal block.

check it out!

As far as I know, if you have the Boston Acoustics package, you can just tap off the white 12v amp turn on wire that connects to the hidden amp in the trunk. The wire is connected to your ignition terminals which allows a full 12v to pass through.

Its in the wire manual so dont quote me on this as I dont have the car yet to prove it. I'm almost 100% positive on this after reading that wire guide thou. I hope this helps.

And please please let me know how it works out for you since I'll be doing the exact same thing and I'd rather do this than having to make a switch and run a line off the battery. I really dont feel like running a cord all the way from the back to under the dash were I would mount a switch then back again.

Shaun

That may have solved my problems if I had thought to look there.

To udpate this, I bought an amp with signal sensing turn on. Unfortunately, it only stays consistently on over volume level 10, but that's alright with me. I may check out the afore mentioned fuse panel.

As for finding a cluster of wires etc in the dash, I just don't see how I can do that without some hand holding and expert guidance with this new car.

I'll update again if I use the fuse box.

We tested all hookups of the harness with a voltometer, only the red wire had 12v. I don't remember the white wire specifically but we checked them all.

At first I thought you wanted remote on just for remote on.. I.E. sensor that power was up. Not a feed for a device. My fault for speed reading. As far as the wire well I don't know just was reading that list someone else posted.

If you just run juice back there you can use a manual toggle switch is another option. Just a pain to toggle unless you route it up front somewhere.

Otherwise you probably want to order a pro power distribution block. I have even seen them at Wally mart and Buy Moore.

Did you turn the ignition and radio on while checking?? That's the only time you're going to find the "white" amp turn on coming from the headunit.

yes of course lol. while started with music playing, only the red wire got juice, and even when turned off, it still got juice, so it was no good.

and remote on has to be constant 12v for the device to stay on doesn't it? if not, then I guess I misunderstood the whole concept.

You didn't misread the first time. Toggle switch is no good, I'm too forgetful.

red wire directly linked to battery(always on), remote(usually blue) wire is switched. It will turn off when ignition, radio, or source is turned off. Same principle as a toggle(fog light) switch. You just have to find a place to mount it (ie dash). Don't have the car yet for references on the wires/amp location..:wave:

..and you don't want to use the constant on(red) wire as your component(s) will always be on and eventually drain the battery..

Adjusting the input gain
 

Hey Adam,
You may be able to adjust your input signal sensitvity (Input Gain) a little higher, in order to have the sensing turn on feature of the amp to trigger the turn on before a voulme of 10. There are also many different type of speaker sensing turn on modules on the market, that may work better than the auto sense unit made into your Amp. You even may be able to adjust a seperate unit to turn on at lower volume than the circuit/feature made into the Amp with the auto sense will allow. A seperate unit will not affect the input signal adjustment at all of amp. Is there a switch made into the amp to cut the auto sensor on and off, or any type of seperate threshold adjustment for the turn on feature? :wave: