Brake Pads question ... need help ASAP ?
 

hay all

Im about to replace my break pads... so my question is what do you guys think of Hawks ceramic pads any body used them before are they better than stock bermbos any feed back or advise will be appreciated.

They do not perform any better than stock but they are an almost zero dust pad. If you want to improve performance then check out the Hawk HPS.

I just switched over to Hawk HPS when i did the CTS-V caliper/rotor conversion and have been amazed at how little dust they produce compared to the OEM. And they work better to boot.

What kind of driving do you use the car for? The Ceramics are a great street pad for those looking for little to no brake dust, but if you are a spirited driver I would recommend the HPS. They will be an upgrade from stock and still produce less dust. Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

If your looking at hawk there is two questions to ask that will give you the answer to which compound to buy.

1) Do you want more breaking power? If yes than HPS
2) Do you want lower dust? If yes then ceramic.

The HPS provides both better braking and at least 50% less dust compared to OEM.

If you want no dust and less than optimal brakes then get the ceramic.

This. :thumbsup:

Just installed the hawk ceramics and damn they suck!! I'm so mad. They squeal so much and braking power is way less the oem. Going to go back to oem really dissapointed

It is critical that you properly bed them in.


Performance Street break-in procedure

All brake pads must be broken in with the rotor they will be used with. Even though performance street pads have been burnished at the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether you have new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.

1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 8 brakings* from approximately 30-35 mph, applying moderate pressure. Do not go below 25 mph.
   
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard brakings* from approximately 50 to 55 mph. Do not go below 40 mph.
   
3. Allow 15 minutes for the brake system to cool down. Do not apply the parking brake# during this cooldown period.

Your performance street pads are now ready for driving!

Notes:

1. *These brakings refer to an abrupt and "snub and release" pedal action instead of dragging brakes to a complete stop. If you have to drive to another place to perform this procedure, it's OK to drive and gradually stop as you would normally on street.
2. # This refers to the floating caliper type rear parking brake. It's OK to use the parking brake if you have the drum type shoe brake. If you are not sure what type of parking brake you have, simply shift your transmission to the "P" position or 1st gear (for manual transmission).
3. The purpose of the break-in procedure is to generate a thin film (which can only occur when the pad is heated up) and transfer it to the rotor surface. You should avoid having the brake pad in contact with the rotor surface as much as possible during the break-in. This is why you should never drag the brakes to a complete stop.

Already tried that and nothing

Carbotech 1521. Done.

i posted this in another string but wanted to post again for help...

just an FYI and any suggestions if you can....
I went to have my HAWK HPS put on today and during the bedding phase the mechanic was hearing a thump or a knock on both sides and was feeling it in the pedal....they looked at it again and it was tight fitting. the only thin he came up with is that during driving the pads shift back and forth in the cradle, causing a knock...so he said i have the wrong pads and put the old one back on....is this common and what happened?? im sure i got the right pads for the front HB638F.702...there just pads ...how hard can this be?...maybe its the mechanic...any thoughts??
any body use STOPTECH rotors and pads??