I've ran nothing but 93 octane since the day i took delivery. My ZL1 was ordered, it wasn't purchased off the lot. Just to be sure and out of curiosity I done the fuse pull way before i've done any mods. I didn't experience any difference from the fuse pull so I guessed I were the lucky few that actually took delivery of my ZL1 with the proper 93 octane. I have up to 4,500 miles logged. I had all my traction assists off. I went back to check and made sure all my hoses related to this mod are on tight.. they were fine so still puzzled how some are claiming increase on all ranges of the rpm. Anyway its a pretty simple mod.. i don't see how i could mess it up.. I'll post pictures some point over the weekend for those who suggessted it.. so you could see if i messed it up or not.
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Give it some time (couple of weeks) for the car to self adjust your fuel trims. This flat is normal for adding something which adds more air and creates a slightly different flow path over the MAF sensor. I felt the same right off idle low end flat spot and it corrected itself over time.
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I took delivery of my ordered car with 8 miles on it and ran nothing but premium. The fuse pull woke mine up for sure. even my wife noticed it. just make sure you pulled both fuses and they were the right number. I thought the fuse pull was BS until I did it. Now some say it does nothing but on my car it was noticable. this was even before mods. need to get on a dyno or at least datalog the car. right now it is all speculative posts. The butt dyno is not calibrated very well. to people who say 25hp is not noticable it disagree you should be able to feel 25hp. so if you don't it is either some kind of wied misconception IE the power is just even more linear not and is fooling you or you maf transfer function went off for soem reason and you running rich robbing power. |
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We've seen plenty of dyno numbers on these intakes already. They make a solid 15 rwhp on the top end and all through the mid range power band. If you lose any power it's well below your power band and shouldn't have any effect on a race. Also, 15 rwhp on a car making over 550 hp isn't something that should make a night and day difference. It's about a 2% power gain to kind of put it into perspective. If you really want to feel a big jump in power you'll need to look into long tube headers or some pulley work! |
^...and to that end, I understand your point, but I would like to ad that long term experience and the ability to articulate/express into words, and have visceral feel are different things. Perspective is reality is the saying. They vary wildy. Therefore proven methods of documenting and repeating results is key, such as in a scientiific method. Dyno pulls are a good source, and granted they vary somewhat due to the technology, but they are real world. Also someone who is very good at doing something may not be able to translate that ability, give feedback, or discriminate enough between what is noticeable and what is not. Semantics to a degree, ones perception versus reality another. However, some are locked in, plugged in, or in tune to a point with something to the degree that they are able to distinguish between fine differences of performance and can differentiate between them. Dynos are good, and an additional 100 HP is even better, but a driver with enough seat time and experience can relate to the changes in performance up or down the scale readily.
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looks excellent, cant wait to do mine. Nice job
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9Amd2aPqE0 I used the video instructions. |
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Then I added headers, cat delete, and crank pulley, then the butt dyno picked up the 60 hp and tq gain! |
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Put the stock air box back in and get it dyno ed, then put the roto-fab in and dyno the car again.... There's your answer. |
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