What Oil to use after engine rebuild?
 

So after my cam install and dyno tune i noticed on the way back home that my oil pressure was at ZERO! or a bit higher, The funny thing that i didn't get the "turn of the engine" message and i didn't notice the pressure until i was 2 blocks away from home, i thought it was only the sensor that went bad and that's why i didn't get the message :iono: next day i start it up and heard lifters noise :bellyroll: after taking it back to the shop it turns out that the oil pump has failed "which was melling HV", a lifter was broken and the cam bearings with the cam itself was damaged! so we decided to change them all and i've also changed the rod bearings, pistons rings and oil pump.

Now what oil to use for the first startup and what oil to use for break-in Procedure? my engine builder is telling me that i've to use 20w50 non synthetic oil, I know i've to use a non-synthetic oil for first startup and break-in but isn't that too thick for a newly rebuilt engine? What oil are you guys using after your engine has been rebuilt?

BREAK IN OIL Joe Gibbs BK or Amsoil break in oil. it has the zink you need http://www.texas-speed.com/p-3949-jo...FSISMwodQGwAyQ
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=BRKQT-EA

Oh my gosh....a Melling failed???? Anyway, run what JC listed above.

Prob the o-ring, no?

Joe Gibbs or am soil break in after that ls30 at least that's what tsp recommended me.

Amsoil, all the way!

I've never seen an oil pump fail from new, Not even a stock pump. I have heard of a stock pump fail after a cam install. I'd make sure that they did install a melling.

Secondly ANY builder is going to give you precise instructions on how to properly breakin their build and how to maintain it after. I'd call them and make sure and STICK to their instructions.

It seems that every time i see a thread about a failed oil pump, stock or Melling, it's after a cam swap and using the wrong oil! The cam fails and the metal destroys the pump.

Thanks guys, my engine builder told me It was because of the oil I've been using which was mobil1 10w30! I might have been runnig out of pressure for a couple of minutes I don't know why the message didn't appear It really sucks! the car Isn't at the states right now It's In the middle east they don't have Amsoil neither Joe Gibbs :iono: they only got mobil1 "Synthetic and non-synthetic" and castrol "Synthetic and non-synthetic", redline and pennzoil is available but it 's synthetic and that's not good for a newly rebuilt engine! So I'm stuck with mobil and castrol but don't know what to choose! and what thickness is right! :frusty:

The thing Is, he told me that the oil pump fails and caused the damage because of using a thin oil "mobil1 10w30" and he's telling mo that I've to use a thick oil "like mobil 20w50 or anything 20w50", someone's correct me If i'm wrong, but Isn't the clearences tight In my situation? "newly rebuilt engine" which needs a thinner oil not a thicker one! :iono:

You're correct! :frusty:

Right because every car that comes off the assembly line with Mobil1 implodes in 10 miles. Your builder screwed something up and wants a scapegoat. It was probably the o-ring or they didn't center the pump on the snout properly.

Swapping a camshaft does not change a bearing tolerance ANYWHERE.

I will be using mobil 1 15w50 per Andy at ADM but this is on my 417 build.

Everything he said is BULLSHIT! Who installed this? Some whacky Iraqy!