Pedders 1LE Permagrin install
 

That is going to be one kick-ass handling Camaro. You will surprise quite a few Mustangs at the track, among others. Enjoy and keep us posted after you've put it through the paces!

thanks, OC it doesn't hurt with 457 rwhp either! :)

My car is on the chassis dyno as we speak, dialing in the cam, longtubes, high-flow cats and CAI. I don't think I'll hit numbers as high as yours, as I went mild lift on the cam since my machine's a road courser. I pick her up tomorrow! :cool:

UPDATE: Just got a call from the shop, 478 RWHP! So much for a mild cam, LOL

I can feel the 11LE love in the air :grouphug:

This kit and springs are getting done early next year...

Can you explain your comment on "timing the bushings". Maybe show pictures?

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179281

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153188

Those two links should explain everything... If you still have questions, feel free to ask. Hopefully, someone might be able to get some pictures during install for ya.

A rubber bushing with a bonded steel ferule does not rotate when the control arm articulates. It twists. When a vehicle is on a lift and the wheels hanging down, that is the furthest downward motion possible. If you tighten the suspension bolts in that position when the vehicle is set on the ground the bushing will be twisted, under load, and want to 'spring back to the full droop position. When the suspension is compressed further traversing a bump in the road the resistance in that bushing increases and then wants to 'spring' back down past the at rest ride height and to full droop.

In short, there is more bushing resistance in the compression of the suspension and less resistance on the rebound. I'll do a video over the next couple of days with a control arm in a vice.

This question is for racerx8 or Pete. Is this an install a certified (Hyundai) mechanic can do? My mechanic buddy did an outstanding job installing my Magnuson supercharger, but he had the step by step manual to guide him. Are there instructions on the Pedders website that I could print off that would guide him (us) installing the 1LE Permagrin pkg? The 32mm sway bar should be straight forward (hopefully).....I'm concerned with the bushings!

This is for Pete....I have the Pedders ZL1 27mm front & 32mm rear sway bars. What would adding the front sway bar do to the 1LE's handling?

Sways are straight forward. The rear is cake. In the front, on a lift the key is to work off one or both of the OEM sway bar brackets. A pair of large Channel lock pliers give good leverage. I have seen techs do it with large screw drivers. Once the bracket or brackets are off the hard work is over.

Using our 27 compared to the factory 27 is a no brainer. It is Pedders Red and automatically adds 15 RWHP :happy0180:

The factory bar is fixed position. Our bar is adjustable. Using the enter hole consider it a factory bar. Move to the softest hole, the hole furthest away from the mounting straps and closest to the firewall, your 1LE delivers an incredibly smooth transition to oversteer at slightly lower track speeds. If you want to dial it down, move the endlinks to the hole closest to the radiator. You now have more bar than OEM.

Sway bar settings are not locked down. Want just a little more bar? Then move one endlink to the soft hole and leave the other in the center hole. Adjust tire pressure, alignment, spring rate, compression and rebound along with incremental changes to the bars. Pretty soon we have some flexibility in setup :cool:

Regarding the rear bushing R&R see my original post here, it's actually quite easy the way I did it. Refer to Pete's post on the front radius bushing R&R, loosely tight, then to spec tighten with suspension loaded (on the ground or lowered onto an alignment rack).
Good luck and enjoy the ride, Joe :)