13.2 @ 116 mph...suspension wizards...HELP!
 

Okay...here's the mods and the numbers as the car currently stands :
Torque management eliminated via tune
Rotofab CAI
SLP Loudmouth II axle back
Barton shifter
Kooks 1 7/8" Jet Hot coated headers & Hi Flow Cats
Pfadt lowering springs
Spohn trailing arms
Comp Cams XR281HR13 .571/.590 228/240 113 LSA
Dyno tune by Straightline Performance in New Lenox, IL : 470 rwhp/423 rwtq

And the latest results from the track on the stock tires:
60'............. 2.452
330'........... 6.088
660'........... 8.908
660’ mph..... 87.62
1000'.......... 11.276
1320'.......... 13.227 :mad0260:
1320’ mph… 116.28 :thumbup:

Car had wicked evil wheel hop on launch as well as the 1-2 shift.....:mad0259:

MPH says this car should be going way the hell faster than 13.2....so I turn to the suspension gods for help :bow:

There is a lot of movement in the subframe. I would do Pedders subframe inserts and while you have the subframe lowered replace the upper control arm bushings. If you're not concerned with drivetrain noise, you can replace the entire subframe bushing for even greater control.

Also, you may want to put some of the torque management back in.

I think working on your launch technique will help more than anything. No offense, but that 60' is terrible. Try rolling out of the clutch and rolling into the gas and perfecting that. Good luck. With that MPH you have a very low 12's run justing waiting for you.
:thumbsup:

Our BMR trailing arms (TCA026) and our BMR toe rods (TR002) would help make a huge difference, those two items would be the first items I would do since the are relatively inexpensive and are pretty easy to install. If those items didn't cure all the wheel hop I would recommend the BMR "street" rear cradle bushing kit (BK020). These couple items will help out immensely with the wheel hop and are not going to break the bake or change up the driveability of the car really at all.

Also you should look into getting some better tires, you will never be able to hook very good on the stock tire. I would atleast look into the Nitto drag radials.


Kyle

No offense taken....I tried multiple launch styles...all of them failed. Before the cam was in I was at least able to get 2.1 60's.

ummm the key to any good suspension is a sticky tire

if you are running stockers or something on the factory wheel (this i'm assuming you are), you lack this and is where you will see the biggest improvement on.

Yep, then sticky tires is your best opton. :thumbsup:

So you suggest drag radials over any suspension mods then?

YES!

tires should of been first

then suspension

I'm just wondering how much bang for the buck/help I'm really going to get from a 20" drag radial...it's gotta be close to $600 for a pair. :mad0259:

i would suggest getting 18" wheels/drag radials

it's worth the extra money

and the tire is the make it or break it on almost any setup.

with a sticky tire, you should be in the ~1.7 60' range.... that will take you down to a high 11 second pass.... so you are cutting AT LEAST 1.2 seconds off your ET, by spending ~1,000. That isn't a good "bang for your buck" mod?!?! I'd say it's pretty damn good!!

I think the smart way to do this is throw some suspension upgrades at the car...benifits both the street & strip aspects. Then, instead of throwing money away on 20" drag radials...going with what you suggested with 18" wheels with a sticky set of drag radials, then praying the OEM halfshafts don't grenade. I'll bet you're on the mark...with those 18s an 11 time slip can be had.

:word:

Like was said earlier, work on launching the thing. If your tires are spinning at the line, you may as well give that run up. Don't be afraid to heat those tires up either. What track are you running at...what was the weather/DA like.