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They aren't the cheapest bulbs but they aren't hard to change. Just make sure you go through the fenderwell. Back when I did them there weren't any DIY on going through the fender well so I did it the hard way and ended up snaping the tabs on the side. Of course AAC wouldn't touch them once they broke....and they snapped off real easy so be carefull. |
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Since I don't have fog lights in my LS, would this be worth the money? http://www.automotivelightstore.com/lsfogpackage.aspx I believe the bulbs they send are the ones you suggested to be a close match to 5000K headlights. 5000K is as close you can get to white, right? |
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AAC's plasma bulbs weren't out back when I did fog lights. I used there 5202 LED bulbs. I can't give you an honest opinion on how they look compared to 5000k bulbs. From the pics they post it looks closer to 6000k bulbs though. |
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You don't happent to have pics of where you drilled and zip tied the halo to the housing you can post? What about spray painting the halo black and then sanding it. That's the part that really has me curious. I would be nervous to do that personally. Once you spray it, they are definatley yours. I would also be scared to sand too much on the LEDs and cause one to come off or not work. |
Ill check for a picture of that its one hole at the top of the reflector and one at the bottom. We used a power source to test the halos before we did anything to the halos. Painting them really wasn't a big deal at all
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I wish someone could provide a DIY with the paiting of the chrome housing. I talked to theretrofitsource and it's only 230$ for their kit and if I do the install myself I would be saving over 800$ from sending them to one of the forums vendor. Appreciate the DIY tho!
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Shouldn't be that difficult at all. Once you have the housing open and ready to paint, I would lightly scuff up the housing using something like a scotchbrite. Then wipe it down with a clean cloth and/or a little water and alcohol. Maybe blow it dry with some compressed air. Then one or two light coats of primer. Then a couple light coats of flat black and let dry. Make sure to read and follow the instructions on the can of paint. It will tell you the drying times and how much time in between coats. Also, you can try to contact C586 and/or TurboGuy327. He is the one that turned me on to HID stuff and he can either do them for you or at least point you to someone who can. I think he wanted $125 to do mine + shipping back and forth. |
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2. Rinse off dust 3. Dry 4. Prime if needed (spray paint specifically for plastic doesn't require primer) 5. Spray 2 even coats following directions on the can on how much time is needed between coats 6. Let dry over night That's all I did and i'm quite happy. |
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http://www.automotivelightstore.com/5202special.aspx |
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Okay... Sorry for the mass bulk of questions I keep having, but I'm trying to make sure I get all the right stuff.
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1. No.....4300k is what is OEM and it actually has a slight yellow tint to it. The 5000k have an ever, I mean ever, so slight blue to them. Most people would not look at them and say they are aftermarket. With 6000k and especially 8000k you can definately see the blue. I prefer 5000k personally.
2. I can't answer this one. 3. These aren't exactly the same as 5000k but are real close. Close enough to use. You won't really get the colors to match until you go with a true HID in the fog light. Those are what I ended up using and I'm a little picky about matching the colors. Just know they aren't an exact match and you'll be good with them. Only you or someone that has dealt with aftermarket lights would even notice. 99% will say they match. 4. Not sure if I understand or know how to answer this one. Most OEM fog have a black trim ring and chrome housing. But to make it all match you might paint the housing black. I would try the chrome housing first and go back and paint the fogs later if you decide to. They are not hard to get in/out once you learn how. |
Those of you doing this on your own, just remember you'll need to adjust the actual projector in the housing. I remember on TurboGuy's thread he did one light at a time. When it came time to adjust the projector he faced the car at the wall or garage door. Then before putting the lens back on he would put the headlight back on and make the horizontal and vertical adjustments to the other light. Hopefully that make sense.
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Correct. You'll need to take the bumper off to get to the head lights. Then just take one headlight off to work with it. Before putting the lens back on, mount the headlight again and put the light up against a wall to adjust. Then when the lines match up you can work on the other light.
Here are a couple pics of how TurboGuy did them. I made the top of my cut-off line match the other side. In his it looks like he made the bottom of the right match the top of the left. |
Okay, thanks for your great help! Another question: do you know how to open the aftermarket housings? I remember you said you had one and it was much easier.
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I had bought a set of used OEM lights but when they arrived at TRS one was busted during shipping. It was easier just to buy a single aftermarket one. I actually have one OEM headlight and one aftermarket headlight. You can't tell a difference. |
I talked to RetroSource and they told me that if I sent them the aftermarket housings and AAC halos, they would paint, retrofit, and install the halos for $645 for labor and parts. I asked if that included adjusting the lights, and he said since they don't have a Camaro there, they'd get it close and it would just need some minor adjusting.
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