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Evap not ready (TX Inspection) question

Hey everyone,

I have a Superchip and based on the inspector set it back to stock. I have drive the car about 155 miles and have it checked everyday. I am still getting two (2) "Not ready" on Catly and Evap. I only need one to go away to pass TX emissions.

Question: Is there an easy fix for evap not ready?...I have heard replacing gas cap and the other option is replacing evap system. If replacing evap system is the only option is this a difficult DIY option and are their step by step instruction on how to do?

Thanks in advance!!!

Why are you doing this in Texas? We dont have emissions testing unless you live in commie Austin. I only get checked for horn, lights, wileds and tires. No tint check or anything else.

Find another inspection place! I've never had that checked.

I live in houston and they still check emissions...

its not how far you drive it its how its driven,the drive cycle needed to run those moniters is stupid long and has some weird specs like driving at 35 for 5 minutes then decel and accel to 60 for 1 minute as an example.

They check in the DFW area as well.

Question is what is causing the problem. Did you add headers and haven't tuned yet?

WTH is a Super Chip and how would you set it back to stock? I can tell you I would let an inspector jack with my car. That's what a performance shop is for.

Quote:

Originally Posted by caverman (Post 7202121)

WTH is a Super Chip and how would you set it back to stock? I can tell you I would let an inspector jack with my car. That's what a performance shop is for.

Anything called a "chip" now-a-days scares the poop out of me. What is this chip? What does it do? Best thing to do is remove the chip and get it professionally TUNED.

EVAP is usually one of the last things to go ready. If you let the car sit overnight then start it up and let it idle for 10 minutes or so, a lot of time it will go ready. I'm not sure of the laws in your area, but we're allowed 1 to be not ready and still pass; which is usually the EVAP.

Here is the GM drive cycle instruction FWIW

Quote:

General Motors Driving Cycle

A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ringo64 (Post 7202131)

Anything called a "chip" now-a-days scares the poop out of me. What is this chip? What does it do? Best thing to do is remove the chip and get it professionally TUNED.

Chips come in different types and flavors. The most common types are potato, corn and tortilla and most common flavors respectively are barbeque, chili cheese and cool ranch. Chips are most commonly used for snacking.

Take a little road trip out away from Houston on the weekend and go into a small town and get it inspected somewhere else. The smaller towns don't do emission tests.

Quote:

Originally Posted by caverman (Post 7202121)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ringo64 (Post 7202131)

Anything called a "chip" now-a-days scares the poop out of me. What is this chip? What does it do? Best thing to do is remove the chip and get it professionally TUNED.

http://www.superchips.com/ :thumb:

they've been around for quite a while.

First we do not know which mods you have done to your car, 2nd the tuner should be able to clear away the codes, and if its returned to the stock tune it should have the stock this that and the other thing on it to make it pass. And if it takes that long to make the problem log off from the data kept in this tuner you have well you have a lot more driving to do just to hope it clears it off. You may notice the brand you picked seems more inclined to tune trucks and what not and is not a brand most people pick. Many so called chips now a days just alter the maf signal to make a car run richer and are a POS and a waste of money to supposedly gain h.p. and gas mileage. That's why people look and you say you have a superchip...not a data logging tuner and they think..... junk. I reviewed that brand in the past, was not my first choice. Good luck, you would get more help by calling the company.

Quote:

Originally Posted by onechuck (Post 7202418)

Take a little road trip out away from Houston on the weekend and go into a small town and get it inspected somewhere else. The smaller towns don't do emission tests.

THIS...

It's not the cities that do emission testing! It's the counties... I'm pretty sure that you need to do an emission testing if you live in an emissions testing county. Probably the best way to get around that would be to get a PO Box in a non emissions county and register your car to that address.

OP, Just drive you car regularly. If you paid for the inspection already, you have 15 days to get it retested without costing you anymore.