Simply fantastic. Awesome craftsmanship!

Very cool. Amazing workmanship!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

How much do the ARP bolts weigh compared to the factory bolts they're replacing? Have you done a weight comparison?

You would need titanium bolts for a significant weight difference; not worth it to me.

Anyone have a idea how much weight could be saved via Titanium bolts???

$20K in titanium bolts would save you about 40 lbs...

You can get aluminum bolts, nuts, washers, etc. which can be used for non-critical areas. They weigh about a third of what steel hardware does. They're also a lot cheaper than titanium.

I've considered that as one of my future projects to reduce more weight; switching out steel fasteners for aluminum in the front of the car wherever reasonable to do so. Might be able to save 5-10 lbs that way. Not a critical thing to do but just one of those casual projects for a weekend.

Hey Doc, Have you sourced a supplier for the aluminum bolts and what bolts did you have in mind that we can replace?


Update:



Here are the humble beginnings of what we started with.

Attachment 494029

the plan was to pay homage to the Pfadt suspension components.

In the picture below, we developed a game plan on how to style the rack. The red circles represented the parts that were to be polished for a chrome finish; the orange circle represented the part that we were going to anodize in the Pfadt orange; the beige circle, the body of the rack, we were going to try to come as close to the Pfadt struts color as possible. Like all good plans, things did change as we progressed.

Attachment 494030

The process started with the dissasembly of the rack. We enlisted Lee’s Power Steering for the job.
Our first snag was that since this power steering rack was a new, late model design, there was not a tool available to remove the internal nut.

Attachment 494031

Most racks only require a four tooth socket to remove the nut. Ours required a five tooth socket. So we had to machine one.

Attachment 494032

Attachment 494033

Once the rack was completely disassembled, it was time to start detailing.
Not every day that you get to see the guts of your power steering rack!

Attachment 494034

We started to detail each separate component. This piece is where all the lines connect to. The plan was to anodize it orange to stay consistent with the Pfadt colors.
Raw beginnings: Since it was created by sand casting, it had a very rough finish.

Attachment 494035

In order to get a machined look, we hand sanded the entire piece. Hand sanding is a much more time consuming process than using power tools, but it is the most effective method to get an even surface.

Attachment 494036

Casted pieces will usually not give you as bright of an anodized finish as a billet piece. To help get that desired finish, we polished the piece to a mirror finish.

Attachment 494037

The piece was shipped to Pilkington Inc. in Utah to be anodized by the same company that does the anodizing for Pfadt.

Attachment 494038

The steering shaft and plug were also polished.

Attachment 494039

Attachment 494040

You can see where the nuts have been polished.

Attachment 494041

Next we prepared the tie rods for paint.

Attachment 494042

Before sending the housing to get powder coated in anthracite, we removed all of the seams and casting on the power steering housing. This is the before picture.

Attachment 494043

Many folks were instrumental in the completion of the rack. Jerry and Adam from Lee’s Power Steering are hard at work putting the rack back together. These guys really know their stuff. They machine pretty much all of their own stuff. The cad plated fittings were machined at the shop.

Attachment 494044

In order to replace the factory hard lines with AN stainless steel braided lines, Lee’s Power Steering machined these fittings. We had them CAD plated to provide a nice contrast.

Attachment 494045

Next up was the installation of the braided lines.

Attachment 494046

Attachment 494047

Attachment 494048

There wasn’t a detail that didn’t get addressed. The factory clamp below is of the garden variety and not up to the level we desired. So we replaced them with stainless steel clamps which were polished before they were installed.

Attachment 494049

Attachment 494050

Attachment 494051

Soooo pretty.

I went back to my bookmarks list and was surprised to find one of them appears to be no longer in business, the second one is no longer selling retail. Here's a few links that are still working:

These guys sell specifically for Harley Davidsons but might be a source for the bolts and fasteners that would be the same as our cars use.

http://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium.html

This place looks good and not too far for you to drive to if you wanted to check them out in person:

http://www.non-ferrousfastener.com/index.php

These guys are also "local" to you. I remember going to them in the late 70's for braided stainless lines, couplers, etc.

http://www.gandjaircraft.net/index-1.html

This place is also a performance bike shop but sells titanium and aluminum fasteners, etc.

http://www.oppracing.com/category/13...ews-fasteners/

I had planned at some time in the future to go through the front of the car and see what steel bolts/washers/nuts could be replaced with performance aluminum. Specifically anything that wasn't handling stress; just holding something together, holding an assembly to something else, fender bolts, etc. Since you're already removing everything in the front it looks like, you'd be in a great position to know which pieces could be replaced.

Thanks RJ

Doc, I'm working on aircraft aviation 12 point bolts for the chassis/suspension components. These are primary for strength and they are super expensive!!! I will keep you posted.

Update:


This was one easy mod.


Attachment 495089


Simply lube the outside of each half of the bushing and install.


Attachment 495090

Next, lube the outside of the center pin and install.


Attachment 495091


No need for a lot of force. You can simply push it in with the palm of your hand.


Attachment 495092


I'm still working on getting caught up updating the front sub steps but I figured I'd give you a quick peek at the rear sub...... Stay Tuned!

Justin spent 15 hours cleaning the sub prior to going to the powder coater. I can imaged he got rid of a pound of just welding splatter. You'll see what mean when I post the pictures.

The anthracite gray and Pfadt orange look killer. Much better than the factory black.


Attachment 495093

There is about 30 hours cleaning the HAMMERHEAD (a lot of manual hand sanding went into getting it perfectly smooth) but the finish product looks amazing! Here is another sneak peek..... Next it will get sonic cleaned followed by powder coating and back to Frank at DSS for Assembly.

Attachment 495101

Your build is mind blowing. I would be lying if I didn't admit that I find myself strangely aroused after reading your threads.

Lol we promise not to tell Victoria Chase.