Am i missing anything for this bolt on build? Also a question
 

I'm planning on purchasing(for 2010 SS 6M):

Camaro SS Cold Air Inductions Intake + JRE Scoop Package + RotoFab Washer Bottle
http://www.jreperformanceparts.com/2...er-bottle.html

ARH LT's 1 7/8 primares - 3" collector
http://www.jreperformanceparts.com/g...-cat-back.html

Borla Atak 3" Cat-Back Exhaust
http://www.borla.com/products/camaro...t__140348.html


Skip Shift Eliminator

I'm wondering if i'm missing anything stupid like bolts or anything small. I've looked it over like about 10 times but i would just like to be sure so that when it comes time to actually put it on, i don't get stuck leaving my vehicle in a do it yourself shop because i can't put everything on that day.

My question is that i would like to be able to tune on the fly, but perhaps that's not the best thing to do either. I don't know. If it's not i can just go with an SCT 3 Tuner and be done with it. If so, depending on if i go on a long drive or not, to detune it to save some gas on mileage mode or whatever. I'm fairly conflicted at the moment about this. I guess i don't care too much about it but after looking at a couple tuners i'm not sure what to get.


Thank you

If you are getting tuned there is no need to get skip shift eliminator. Just have your tuner turn it off.

Oh OK. I guess I can do that then. That solves one question.

Gosh glad I bought my Stainless power headers at Maryland speed for half that price with the cats 304 stainless, all I had to do was buy some multilayer exhaust gaskets for the headers..and yes they came with the o2 extensions. And if you do not get a tune you will have CEL showing a problem with the engine and maybe causing you trouble. And 1,700 for the borla.. OMG wish I had your money to blow lol I am getting everything after researching to install a radical cam and headers and get a dyno H.p. tuner tune for around 4K that includes from Texas speed and performance the cam with springs good to .675 lift, and hardened 7.425 pushrods, underdrive balancer/pulley with two belts, cam gasket change set, ls2 dampener, gm three bolt cam gear and arp bolts, and arp crank bolt, and of course with the springs the titanium retainers seats and seals, 160 thermostat, exhaust gaskets, and from Maryland the $712 headers with the bolts, high flow cats 304 stainless, and 02 extensions........ And I should be around 500 rwhp with my cai intake, and yes I had a hand dremel to cut the hole in the fenderwell it requires. I already have NPP exhaust.

Sadly I don't have the money to blow. It's taking months to save up. The only way I know how to get stuff. I've been researching prices and found the exhaust for $400 cheaper so I ordered that. Figured that's the most I'll ever save on that particular piece.

If I could get headers for half the price I most certainly would. I am planning on price searching for all items as well. Hopefully I can come across some deals. Basically buying stuff as I get the money for it because it appears there is no alternative.

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Still valid?
 

I remember reading that when the display on the dash indicates a skip shift, if you clear that message with the button on the stalk, then you won't have to worry about skip shift any more. Is this still the word on the street, or has this been disproven? :help:

Thank you for considering JRE, if your on a tight budget we have some other brands that can do the job.

The SCT tuner and JRE tune will make it all work correctly No check engine lights, No skip shift eliminator needed.

If you have any question My team is here to answer and help guide you with your purchase.

Thank you
Ted.

I know there other headers but the price difference is minimal and i like to go with what i think is quality.

Also, i considered buying the items from you as i know you guys are pretty active on the forums and i read nothing but positive reviews about your work, and that if i buy from you i get the tune for free for those mods, which is a great deal :)
On a side note, the car is garaged currently until the weather improves but if i purchased the tuner now and sent you the file, then listed what modifications i'm getting, which is everything up there, i could throw the mods on first at the shop and dump the tune in immediately instead of waiting for days to get a tune back right?

ARH ARE Quality for sure.

I respond with Tune requests with in hours unless you send it on an Sat afternoon then you would wait until Monday Morning.

Give me a call I will be happy to discuss your Options.

Ted.

ARH are the only headers I would ever consider spending 1k + on.

Well i do have limited options as i require dual cats. Every set of headers i have looked at with dual cats is from 1350-1475. Not too much of a difference there. By going for quality, i make every dollar count. At least in theory haha.

I have a 2010 and tried this...doesn't work on mine. When you press the button it get's rid of the message but it keeps coming back and skip shift is still enabled.

Wait a minute...$1700??!! For an exhaust??!! You have got to be kidding me. You're gonna spend over $3600 for an intake, headers, and cat-back exhaust??!! I'm sorry dude but you're mad as a gibbon if you pay that much for those items. That would be the absolute worst bang for the buck ever in history. Do yourself a favor and shop around. Its one thing to want quality parts...its another thing entirely to just throw an insane amount of money for headers, exhaust, and intake mods. Not saying not to get those brands. But you can definitely find way better prices than this.

I know, it is insane but i can't buy cheap parts that will fail when a few hundred now will save many hundreds later. I plan on these mods lasting me 20 years, possibly more, who knows. This is my toy before i get a house, wife, all that stuff. My dad had his car when he was young and now i have mine. His car is 44 years old. I hope to see mine go that long without replacing many parts either. Though i'll be driving mine more than he does his i imagine, as it's also the only car i own.

Also, i will probably only put 3000-5000 miles on the car per year and while i have that time to drive it, i'd like to DRIVE it. It can only be on the road between april-november if im lucky. Sometimes it snows in october. Though i've only owned it for since september 2013 and i drove it for 1 month then put it away. Put about 500 miles on it in that time.