Fuse pull
 

Trying the fuse pull overnight on my 2010 SS manual:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ight=Fuse+pull

Anyone else try it?

So I *think* I noticed a bit of a difference this morning. The car seemed smoother, but then again, it was also a warmer day today. I have no idea if this actually changed anything :) lol

Dude only on the L99 does the fuse pull work.
On our LS3's you need to disconnect the negative battery cable for a hour or so or best would be overnight. p.s. don't close the trunk all the way its hard to climb thru the back seat to open it again lol.
I've do this to ours and it seemed to make a difference. I'll do it at the race track even for a hour before making a run.

well, out of the 100 pages in that thread, people said it would work, and others said it wouldn't on the 2010 SS, so I thought I'd try anyway ;)

??? You sure? This doesn't sound right to me.

Where did you hear this? Fuse pull works on all the SS engines.


Sent from my 2SS/RS

I tried to find it in the forums but with sooo many threads and family being here for easter no time. I will look harder tonight. I read this in the fuel table resets back in early 10'. So when I find it i'll post a link. I've never done the fuse pull because of the thread.

:iono:

Fuse pull 100% for sure works on all SS models.

I confirmed this myself on my 2012 SS after trying mid grade (89 octane) and then going back to 91. The car felt a bit sluggish, had a slightly rougher idle and the throttle response was a bit lazy. Once I did the fuse pull (i only left #5 and #20 out for ~15 minutes) the car came right back to life!

My car is an LS3 6-speed manual, so, it DOES work.

I tried this twice on my 2012 SS (after using 89 grade on a long trip). I didn't notice any difference

2012 L99...definitely worked!

And you most likely wont notice it if you drive like a normal sane human being, but when you open her up or are being aggressive with the car, thats when you'll notice it.

Correct. I had to get on it the day I did the fuse pull. Drove it aggressively on a certain stretch of road, parked it at home and did the fuse pull. Took it out on that same stretch the next day and really noticed the difference.

This whole issue started with the 2010 L99's.

This may be covered in the other thread you'vre been reading and someone can correct me if I'm wrong but the issue is the computer figures out what type of fuel is in the car or the octane levels based on spark knock. It then pulls timing on the engine to prevent knock and or pre-detonation.(lower octane fuel).

Pulled timing causes the engine to run rich and reduces the potential for detonation. However, this also means lost HP. When they were dyno tuning mine, we had pulls on the dyno, if memory serves me correct, that were in excess of 700RWHP. Because my goal was to be as bullet proof as possible we pulled a number of degrees of timing and ended up at 666RWHP. Again it has been awhile but I believe I was told the day I picked the car up that if I wasn't happy with the power I still had almost 9 degrees of timing left to play with.

So the fuse pull and or battery disconnect works like a reset button. The computer should re-learn the octane levels and give back some of the timing that it pulled. Advancing the timing should result in an increase in HP. Now this isn't going to help if you continue to use an 87 octane in the car.