STS Twin Turbo Upgrade
 

A local shop here is getting a line on STS Turbos. I was in his shop yesterday talking about upgrading the cam on my SS. He said why dont I just put a STS Twin Turbo in your car at his cost with free installation, so you can spank all these young guys who have NOS. But I'll have to show your car as a demo model for my shop. AHHHH, Yeah!! He's calling STS to get his price on the Twin Turbo version Monday. I'll post vids once the car is complete.

Who has a STS Twin Turbo? Comments please?

Thanks!!

Check the FI section.

yea try the FI section.....buuuuuuuuut at cost with free installation sounds like a killer deal.

:word::word::word::word::word:

They could pay me to to install it, then I would pull it off and sell it to someone who didn't know better. I wouldn't touch that stuff with a 20ft stick IMO.

exactly!! do a search about the STS kit before you pull the trigger. You never want the turbos that far away from the motor. (you'll get crazy lag)

I was close to doing an STS kit, but then read about oiling issues and lag issues. That's when I ordered my maggie. There's a reason car manufacturers don't put turbos in the back of the car from the factory, it isn't the right way to do it. Trans mount, or engine mount is all you want with a turbo kit.

I haven't read anything about lag or oiling issues. I will research this issue more before I pull the trigger. Thanks for all the input about the STS system. Please feel free to make any suggestion. Please keep the comments coming.

Thanks again everyone.

Buy anything but the STS. What do you want? There are tons of good kits out there that will make big power. ECS, Maggie, Whipple, IPS, Vortech, AGP, etc.

I just spent 3 days cleaning up from an STS oiling issue. This was on my '01 Silverado. The power wire to the oil return pump cracked in half. The turbo overfilled with oil and blew +2 quarts of motor oil up thru the charge air pipes, intercooler, and into the engine.

After I soldered the broken power wire back together, I had to pull the turbo, all 17' of charge pipe, the intercooler, the throttle body, and the EGR valve. Oil everywhere. Had to soak the charge pipes for hours in hot soapy water, rinse and then spray them out with brake cleaner. I also spent 2 days repeatedly flushing the intercooler with hot soapy water until it finally flushed clean. Had to clean all the oil off the MAF sensor and the remote IAT sensor.

Put all the charge pipes back on along with the intercooler. Pullled the TB and cleaned it. Pulled the EGR as it was very oily and carboned up. Stuffed a shop rag into the intake manifold 3 times, pulling it out and it was an oily dripping mess. Ran a can of Sea Foam through it.

I used an entire bottle of dish soap, 4 cans of brake cleaner, 1 can of MAF cleaner, 1 can of TB cleaner, 1 can of Sea Foam, 3 rolls of paper towels, 1 package of shop rags, and about a half gallon of Fast Orange Hand Cleaner. What a PITA !!!

And this is a single turbo system. When you "oil down" a twin turbo setup, just double the effort I described above. PITA x2 !!!

Just got back from a 45 minute "aggresive" test drive and all seems well.

If I ever do another turbo setup, I'll be going with one that uses gravity feed to return the motor oil back to the engine sump. No more electric motors to pump the oil back for me.

Not true at all. I had STS divorced turbo on my Silverado. Absolutely ZERO lag. Made great power as soon as you touched the gas. 430HP/500TQ to the street through a 4l80e, a transfer case, 4.56:1 gears and 35" tires.


I have heard however that Squires no longer uses Garrett turbo's and instead is using cheap Chinese knock offs that do not last very long. Another word of warning is about the intake location. If you ever drive in heavy rain you will injest copious amounts of water vapor that will pool in your intake tubes. When you boost it will send all of this water across your MAF and the computer will read it as extremely dense air and dump fuel to match, essentially flooding your engine and leaving you roadside. :mad0260:

True. They come with cheap ass turbos and cheap ass hose clamps. I replaced my original turbo with a high quality american made ceramic ball bearing unit for a plus $2,000 cost. I ditched all the crappy worm drive hose clamps and replaced them stainless T-bolt clamp for another additional $150 cost.

So for the twin setup, upgrading both turbos to ceramic ball bearing units and replacing double the crappy hose clamps could run an additional $4,000.

Water ingestion: My truck is lifted 7 inches and being in Arizona, I've only sucked water in once. Left me by the road for about 30 minutes until it dried out enough to run. I 've about 122,000 miles on my STS system. The original STS turbo only lasted about 33K miles before it took a $4!t... I didn't go back to them for the replacement.

My truck was lifted 6" too. I stumbled upon a quick fix for water ingestion. If you flood out due to water on the MAF, simply unplug the MAF and away you go. I do not recommend boosting with the MAF sensor unplugged but you can drive for a short while carefully and it will dry off the sensor.

Great tip !!!

I've since switched to running in Speed Density Mode by unplugging the MAF.

Every 2 years when Emissions testing comes up, I plug the MAF connector back in, reset the code, and enable MIL reporting on the MAF.

I can do this because I put a divorced IAT sensor further down, between the Meth Injection Nozzle and the TB. With this setup I still have IATs.