DIY Install LED SWITCHBACK TURN SIGNALS White DRL and Amber Blinker in one! For RS
15 Attachment(s)
This is a DIY for RS camaro switchback turn signal LED lights. Switchback turn signals are white as DRLS but go back to blinking amber when the blinker is applied.
I bought these (discontinued now): http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...481/menu_num/2 Along with 2 50w 6ohm resistors and mounting plates. EDIT: That link doesnt seem to work, so I think these are the only ones that V-LEDS sell, CLICK HERE . Unfortunately, these seem to have 42 leds instead of the 92 led ones I bought. Id call V-Leds or email them to see if they have the other ones, or to check fitment on these, etc. It does look like the new ones are an improved designed and are probably just as bright or brighter than mine, with an aluminum housing, so I wouldnt worry about the 92 vs 42 led thing. They are 5000k, 92 LED 3157 size bulbs. V-LED is great quality so far. and 5,000k is nearly a match for the halos. Steps: 1. Strip back a section (or use a t-tap) of both factory wires on each blinker wire harness. 2. Splice in the resistor across these two factory wires. - You are splicing the resistor across the amber blinker wire and the negative to simulate a stock bulb, which will make the blinker blink at the correct rate, and keep you from getting a CEL. 3. Find the halo power wire. Purple on the driver's side. Brown/White on the passenger. The wire is on the outside of both sides, with the ground being the opposite side. 4. Strip back a section, and run a new length of wire from the Halo power, to the middle unused part of the blinker harness. 5. You will have to drill a hole through the middle channel of the blinker harness, and run the halo power through it, to power the white LEDs, and keep them on with the halos. If you match your drill bit to the thickness of your wire, then all you should need to do is shove the wire in the new hole, and make sure it is snug, and it will stay in place and make a good contact. - You should notice that the blinker light harness assembly is two parts that can be separated, do this when drilling. 6. Now you should mount your resistor to the frame or hide it wherever you want, resistors can get hot, but since the blinkers are not on often, these resistors will stay cool most of the time. 7. Now be sure to electrical tape all connections and put any wires back in the wire loom as applicable. You lights should now be white with the halos and headlights. They should be off when just the fogs/drls are on. And they should turn to just amber for the blinker. See pictures below |
Good job on the write up!
One note on the power resistors... These are required so that the BCM does not sense that the bulb is burned out. Without them, the car will display an error as well as blink quickly. The heat sink for these resistors are not needed. That is because almost no current is going through these when the blinker is off. When the blinker is illuminated, current does flow through. Since the blinkers are on and off, and usually only for a short duration, these resistors will rarely even become warm. My suggestion is to hide them however you can. Any additional details on how you got the middle wire to stay contacted with the bulb wire inside the connector? |
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Actually I just matched the drill bit up a tad smaller to the wire I was using and shoved it in there, It was a really snug fit, I was planning on adding silicone but I couldnt even pull the wire back out when tugging on it. I taped everything back up with electrical tape. And I used a big enough wire, and left enough extra in the channel that it made a good connection. I wiggled everything around and all of my connections were tight. On my old car I usually put a bit of solder when I spliced connections, or used real connectors, but I didnt have time last night. One thing thats weird, is that if you look at the blinker light harness, its actually two pieces. ALmost a mounting piece for the bulb (which has three working poles/contacts) and then the wiring harness that plugs on to that. So it isnt like I thought before, you arent just trying to get a piece of wire to touch the little lead on the bulb, it is in a female slot, and the bulb mounting piece has the male end, so when they get shoved and locked together theres nowhere for the wire to go. Just use a decent sized wire. Also thanks man, couldnt have done it without you |
Heres a video of them working also
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rt2BkYq69r0 |
Legal?
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A lot of cars have white or blue drls on the front of the car, and also have yellow running lights, that also blink, so I dont see why this would be different. Cant see any reason for them to be illegal |
very kewl idea
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I have everything already wired for the switchbacks. I bought what I thought were switch backs awhile ago but turned out just to be white while running and blinking... I'm in the military and I got a load of bs every time I would go to base. I'm thinking that as long as they signal amber and run white I will be fine? If anyone knows the law for WA I would be grateful as the MA's on base have nothing better to do and would love paper proof so they stop trying to assert there "base" authority lol
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They are white (not an illegal color for the front of the car) running all the time. And they blink JUST amber when blinking (they dont alternate amber/white like some out there). So I dont see an issue. Lots of cars have white, blue, or even amber running lights on the front of the car. |
I can't imagine that they could have a problem with the colors. Many stock automobiles have amber and white on the front. This can't be illegal in any state. The only problem that I can foresee would be that they could claim that they couldn't see your turn signals since the alternating white and white+amber isn't very much contrast. Why not swap them out with the kind that alternate bewteen white and amber?
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Anyone done this mod on a 2013 yet and verify all of the plugs and wiring are the same?
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