Always bleed the fluid at every brake pads you change. Brake fluid absorbs water from the humidity in the air, the water is heavier than brake fluid so the water is pushed to the end of the line, and then it allows corrosion of the system. :)

You'll need to buy new caliper-to-spindle bolts. They're not expensive, but they are torque-to-yield and should not be reused. You'll never get them torqued to specs once they've been stretched.

It it nessesary to grease the back of the pads? If so how do you do it?

Also do you have to push back both pistons at the same time or can you just do one side of the caliper at a time?

Great write up!! Thanks!! :thumbup:

Great write up. bookmark for sure. quick question. I'm trying to get my calipers powder coated, I'm removing the entire caliper and pins, what else do I need to remove from the caliper in order for them to get powder coated. thanks.

I changed my pads over to Hawk HPS the other day. This was by far the easiest brake pad change I have ever done!

Great write up, I am going to paint my rotors and not the caliper.
I want to rmove the rotor can I just unbolt the 2 18mm bolts and how do I release the caliper piston ?
Dave

T30 torx bolt into the face of the rotor.
The caliper will push back in with not too much force. You can use clamps as shown or just pry it in with a large screwdriver.

Thanks for the awesome writeup! I'm planning on doing a brake pad upgrade.

MAYBE in the future I'll do the CTS-Vs up front, I haven't felt the need for too much more braking performance yet though. All bolt-ons so far...

Thanks for the DIY write-up!

Thanks ,
I got them off and am in the process of painting.
Davd

This is great! I plan on swapping the pads Sunday monring before the AutoX event and the rotors the next weekend. I plan to use a scoth brite to scrub the rotors, should I use any chenical or water with it? More importantly, will waiting a week for the new front rotors cause any bedding issues with the pads?

IMO, it would be nice if the suppliers selling replacement rotors would go ahead and include the caliper to knuckle bolts in their packages,,,

Good job on the DIY Big Brunsy.

I think that this should be added to DIY because if they are torque to yield bolts they should NOT be used again. Sure you might be able to get away with it a time or two but are you willing to take the chance. That being said does anyone also have the torque spec for the caliper mounting bracket bolts? Or are they standard torque? I failed to find that anywhere :(
And torque specs from what I have found without talking to the dealership for the caliper bolts.
These specs were from a thread posted on C5
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169229
Front - 33 ft lbs + 90 degrees GM P/N 11570788 M14 x 2.0 x 56.5
Rear – 30 ft lbs + 90 degrees GM P/N 11515781 M12 x 1.75 x 60
GM manual states install new bolts.

My bad. For some reason I was thinking that the caliper bolted to a bracket that you had to remove in order to get the rotor off. I went out today and pulled one apart and answered my own question. If I would have looked at the pictures a little closer I would have seen that, plus I thought last night that the 33 + 90 seemed a little extreme for caliper to bracket bolts :facepalm:
So I guess I will go to the dealer tomorrow and get some new bolts.