Help me configure a brake setup...
 

So here's what I want to do:

I want to upgrade my brakes to the SS Brembos. This is mostly cosmetic on two fronts: 1) the V6 rotors look just puny behind 20inch wheels and 2) I want to have Mike the powdercoater coat them ZR1 blue.

Ok, so then I'm thinking, if I go that far, I might as well get some slotted or drilled rotors, again for looks and also whatever stopping power that may add.

I also don't want the Brembo brake dust problem, so I'll be switching to ceramic pads.

I don't do any racing or autocrossing, so I don't need anything too ridiculous.

So brake experts, how can I accomplish this at the lowest cost? Links to all the parts I need would be very helpful.

You might consider the Hawk Ceramic pads. They are very low dust and almost always quiet yet don't lack stopping power. They are less aggressive than the HPS which are semi-metallic.

For rotors:

YOu can get the GM ones

Centric makes blanks and then slots/drills them under the Stoptech/Powerslot name - and DBA makes 1 and 2 piece fronts both slotted and slotted / drilled. Only 1 piece rears from DBA.

Here are some shots of the DBA rotors.

http://www.knsbrakes.com/core/item/i...ntandrear2.jpg

http://www.knsbrakes.com/core/item/i...ize/Front1.jpg

http://www.knsbrakes.com/core/item/i...Size/Rear3.jpg


-Ken

How about these. Those are a little more in my price range than the DBAs which are about twice as much.

So assuming I get those rotors, the only other part I need is the calipers, correct? And then to trim the rear dust shield. Or am I missing another component?

Is the best place to get the calipers from a GM parts house? I'd like to give my money to a vendor here, but I don't know where to start. Hopefully some of the vendors can chime in and see what kinda package prices we can get.

If you are going to powder coat them I would consider used calipers. Otherwise - there are several online GM vendors you can query.

www.car-part.com will show you a couple salvage yards w/ calipers.

We did notice the pricing on the DBA's to be a bit high so we are ordering some of the Stoptech/Powerslot rotors to keep in inventory as well. I like the DBA brand a lot - very good quality non-Chinese brake rotors w/a pretty good history in racing - but we'll probably stock the Centric premium's (non-slotted Stoptech rotor), the Stoptech slotted and the DBA's.

I agree that DBA would be an excellent choice matched with a set of Hawk pads. If you're looking for inexpensive rotors we make some nice options for the Camaro SS brakes. PM for me pricing.

http://www.stillen.com/product_files/GM6300~photo.0.JPG

http://www.stillen.com/product_files...0S~photo.0.JPG

http://www.stillen.com/product_files...XS~photo.0.JPG

why not just go for teh cts v setup for the price you are going to pay the ctsv arent much more the rears are the same but the fronts are bad ass

I'm trying to spend as little as possible for four rotors and four calipers. After seeing how much aftermarket rotors are compared to SLP takeoffs, I'm most likely buying stock takeoff rotors. Had a quote of 1000 for four rotors and four calipers, but that seems high for used parts. I mean if the rotors are only costing me 60 for four, plus shipping, that makes the calipers very expensive.

The pictures is post # 3 appear to have the directional stickers backwards. I thought the slot was supposed to enter the caliper first at the outside, or upper, edge. The link to the other brake site showed them the opposite of these pictures. Which is correct?

The DBA rotors are of a pillar vane (Kangaroo Paw) construction. It actually does not matter which direction they run as the air flow through them will be the same either way. They label them that way as they would otherwise get tons of phone calls as to which way to run them. If they were based on a curved-vane construction, the direction of the vanes would determine the direction of rotation.

Having said that, in certain applications I've seen, running the slots in the direction they label it (biting) reduces the chance of pad knock in caliper that are susceptible to that issue, or have soft or missing anti-rattle springs. Running the slots the other way (fanning) might induce the pad to lift up slightly in the caliper and cause the noise.