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- Camaro V6 LLT Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons (https://www.camaro5.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=38)

- - Engine catastrophe (https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=449910)

Engine catastrophe

Well going to a show it sounds like I have a bent rod or worse. What are my options? Where are you guys finding good used low mileage engines? What does a new engine cost and from where? And where are you finding rebuild parts if your rebuilding? Also any options for forged internals since I'm running the IPF supercharger kit?

Any guidance would be appreciated as this has never happened to me and I'm really at a loss as to where to start

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Just how hard are you running the engine?

Are you running a Catch Can? If so, what are the details of the set-up? You want to make sure your not deleting the crankcase evacuation function or you may draw water into the cylinder and cause hydro-lock.

The E2X or new E2 system is ideal for a centri SC or turbo build and provides constant evacuation and flushing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dizzy82 (Post 9052913)

Just how hard are you running the engine?

I drive the car spirited but don't beat the piss out of it. To be honest car sat all winter didn't check the oil (did an oil change middle of the year last year) and it seems it was very low on oil. Never had a problem before with oil consumption but apparently this time I did. So my fault for not checking

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering (Post 9052970)

Yeah I'm running a catch can from mighty mouse. It's for boosted vehicles. I don't think it was a catch can issue. Car was low on oil apparently. I'll chuck this one up as my fault. Lesson learned. Now I will always check my oil before anything.

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Check the oil at every gas fillup. Mine starts losing oil at 4500 miles, it is going through the clean side (I have a catch can on that side also).

Lombardi,

I would read further on hydrolock issue using what you have installed. So no bent rods? Only a spun bearing from no oil? Yes on the oil, the LLT and LFX engines have no low oil light indicator until 2014 so you have to check each fill up as Magnumforce indicates correctly.

You are not the only one with an improper FI setup that experienced this.

Read Jantzens threads for details, and more threads as well. You cannot defeat some of the critical functions of the PCV system and then create a direct path for oil to be pushed into the intake air charge and expect long engine life. Your engine needs to be constantly evacuated and all points of ingestion addressed.

Read Alice's post's as well, he has one of the most powerful LLT FI builds on the forums.

:thumbsup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering (Post 9053637)

Thanks for the info. I will pm you sometime this week regarding the setup I am running currently. And by no oil I mean I put 4 quarts in before it read on the dipstick. My own fault.

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So many threads on LLT's motors breaking down . What's the count ? Are most 2010's?

The LLT (and the port injection LY7 before it) will last with little issue IF these precautions are taken, and the LFX and new LGX follow the same:

1. There is no LOW oil indicator until 2014 on these, so you MUST check your own oil ever fill up or so. Most failures are related to low or no oil. This rapidly wears timing chain components as well as rod and main bearings.

2. This are a far more complex engine than the LS3/L99 V8 with higher revving, more internal moving parts, and tolerances needing only the best motor oil. To run the cheap Dexos blend you may get full life out of one, but the odds are against you. These engines MUST run a good premium full synthetic oil.

3. Break it in properly!!!! If you "baby it" the first few hundred miles you are gambling that the rings will seat properly, and odds are they will not before this brief window passes (by 400-500 miles it has past as a hard glaze sets and forms over the cross-hatch hone pattern that abrades the rings to the shape of the cylinder wall). Also, do NOT leave that factory filled oil full of assy debris and break-in particles in longer than 500 miles!!! Change it and filter.

Here is the proper way to break in ANY new engine:

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pszw5vzv7q.jpg

Install a proper oil separating system ASAP before these coking deposits begin to form. Stop it before it is an issue and causes damage.

If your engine is earlier than the 2014 model year, you MUST remove the PCV barb and drill the fixed orifice holes to the size the 2014 and up now have:

http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psjggnrxb9.jpg

Drill the bottom two holes to 5/64" and the top hole to 7/64" (1/8" works as well).

If your V6 has cast aluminum cam covers it has the new design, if black plastic it needs the "drill mod" (GM apparently got this data and how to correct this from a Camaro5 member years ago and it took years before they made the change).

Follow these steps and there is no reason your V6 will not last 200k plus miles. The timing chain design was improved, but even the early design can last with proper care.

ANY GDI engine is different than anything your parents or grandparents had, and most have little understanding of them.

Questions? Just ask.

Do it once, do it right, Elite Engineering USA

:thumbsup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering (Post 9064004)

You guys are great. Just by taking the time to supply info like this makes me want to buy your setup. Want to pm me what you recommend for my car? Blower won't be going back once the brand new engine is broken in. So I'd like something that will work with and without blower or something that can easily be made to work with the blower when I add it back

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Drill the bottom two holes to 5/64" and the top hole to 7/64" (1/8" works as well).
I don't understand this part, can I/we have more info or links please.
Cheers!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lombardi (Post 9064363)

You won't go wrong with an Elite. Mine was installed early on & my baby has never lost a drop of oil between oil changes & runs like a dream. Hope your issue works out well as can be.

If you look at your passenger side valve/cam cover, at the rear top the stock PCV line connects to a barb, unsnap that fitting and the black plastic line and underneath you can see the barb. If you have the black plastic valve/cam covers you have the old style PCV orifice, the cast aluminum newer covers have the updated version that needs no changes.

The first design the holes are far too small to be able to properly evacuate the crankcase, and this also allows the entire port to clog so no evacuation takes place. Simply grab the base with a pliers or vice grips and twist to release, and pull straight up and out. Drill and then clean and re-seat fully back into the cover and your good. This mod used to be showed by SC2150 way back in the 2010 and up threads. GM then made the same change to all 2014 and up (and some late 2013's). Even if you don't install a proper catch can system, this mod is a must.

Engine catastrophe

Thank you Elite :-)

I put your make of Catch Can on my early 2010 V6 LLT when I bought it in early 2012 at 13,500 miles.

It's at 26,000 miles now.

The 4mm of oil that is captured in the Catch Can (about every 3 months I empty it) is clear to creamy in colour.
(P.S. it's damp here in Yorkshire UK).

My Oil is always quite clean.
Oil changed every year or 3,000 miles or so.

Bought the drills :-)
Bring on the weekend for investigating the advised MOD.

I'm in the UK North so always conscientious about the Camaro Care as we are so far from help...