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-   -   SHURE-FIRE METHOD TO CURE BRAKE SQUEAL (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189890)

kmcd 12-19-2011 03:24 PM

SHURE-FIRE METHOD TO CURE BRAKE SQUEAL
 
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First, let me apologize for sitting on this thread so long. I actually did this fix about a year ago, but I've been too lazy to post up the photos and descriptions.

For all of you out there who have been frustrated by GM's failed attempts (caliper weights, roller-skate pads, etc.) to cure the annoying brake squeal that afflicts so many of our Camaros, I promise this will do the trick. It's inexpensive (about $30) and quick (two to three beers max). It's also easy, even for novice wrench turners. Do it once, do it right, and say good-bye to that embarrassing cacophony that emanates from your wheels every time you stop.



These are the only items you need to purchase:

1. Caliper Bolts (FRONT) - GM P/N 11570788 M14 x 2.0 x 56.5

2. Caliper Bolts (REAR) - GM P/N 11515781 M12 x 1.75 x 60

3. Permatex ULTRA DISC BRAKE CALIPER LUBE - Item #24110

Go ahead and pop the top on that first frosty beverage, and give me about thirty minutes to upload the rest of this stuff. :drinking:

The Stig 12-19-2011 03:26 PM

:paddle: how long exactly have you been sitting on this information?


but anyways...:popcorn:

Nvincent4708 12-19-2011 03:28 PM

I used disc brake quiet on the back of the pads and solved it on my ss not too long ago

full of days 12-19-2011 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nvincent4708 (Post 4190293)
I used disc brake quiet on the back of the pads and solved it on my ss not too long ago

plus 1 - CRC makes some good stuff

kmcd 12-19-2011 03:35 PM

STEP ONE
 
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Before we lift the wheels (I started at the rear), you might want to fabricate a couple of pads for your jack stands. I use regulation hockey pucks that I've impaled with 1-inch eye screws because they fit nicely in the box-beam slots. Just insert the eye, twist 90 degrees, and you have a nifty little pad that keeps the jack stand from scratching your frame.

kmcd 12-19-2011 03:43 PM

STEP TWO
 
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Next take a stock regulation puck and place it in the cup of your floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the differential drag link and lift the rear wheels as shown. Don't forget to chock the front wheels before lifting the rears.

Insert the jack stands under the previously-installed pads and lower the the jack until the weight of the vehicle is evenly distributed across all three jack-points.

You may want to loosen the lug nuts with a braker bar (7/8 socket) before you lift the wheels off the deck, although this is not absolutely necessary with the rear wheels.

The Stig 12-19-2011 03:49 PM

That's actually a pretty nifty trick to pad the jack stands

kmcd 12-19-2011 04:00 PM

STEP THREE
 
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Remove the wheels and use a 1/8-inch punch to remove the pad retention pins. It may be necessary to relieve the tension by depressing the spring with your thumb as shown.

kmcd 12-19-2011 04:05 PM

STEP FOUR
 
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With the pins and spring removed, place the punch in the brake-pad pin hole and work the pad aft until you can grasp it and pull it all the way out. Do this for both the inboard and outboard pads.

kmcd 12-19-2011 04:14 PM

STEP FIVE
 
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Next use a braker-bar and ratchet (18mm socket) to loosen and remove the caliper-to-hub bolts and discard them. These are torque-to-yield bolts and should not be reused. If you're not willing to buy new bolts, you need to at least make sure you put fresh loctite on them when you re-install the calipers.

Pull the caliper from the rotor and rest it on top of the control arm as shown.

You may be wondering why we're bothering to pull the caliper? There are two reasons. First, we're going to lube the caliper in the area shown (this is where it makes contact with the hub assembly, and second, you can't slide the pads back into the caliper without removing a lot of the lube in the process. Therefore, we're going to preload the pads into the caliper before placing the caliper back on the rotor.

JusticePete 12-19-2011 04:33 PM

I don't like to be the guy bringing a black cloud to a thread, but the Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube will not last anywhere near that long if the car is driven hard. I am actually surprised this isn't being used when customers drive into a GM Dealership. It is a standard practice at places like Rodgers Chevrolet.

kmcd 12-19-2011 04:35 PM

STEP SIX
 
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Because we have two small pistons instead of one big one, They're easy to push back in, and don't require a "C" clamp or other special tool. You'll need to do this if you're replacing your pads with new ones (I went with Hawk ceramics).

You can use a block of wood and your thumb to walk the pistons back into the caliper. Don't forget to loosen the brake reservoir cap and place a towel around it to catch any overflow while you're pushing the pistons.

kmcd 12-19-2011 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete (Post 4190724)
I don't like to be the guy bringing a black cloud to a thread, but the Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube will not last anywhere near that long if the car is driven hard. I am actually surprised this isn't being used when customers drive into a GM Dealership. It is a standard practice at places like Rodgers Chevrolet.

Patience, my good man. At least let me finish before you trash the thread. :yikes:

kmcd 12-19-2011 04:49 PM

STEP SEVEN
 
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Now comes the fun part. We're going to lube the hell out of everything - the backs of the pads, the pinholes, the pins and spring, and don't forget the caliper. Any place where metal meets metal and has the potential to vibrate, we're gonna' lube it. And lube it like we mean it. When you're finished lubing, it should look like a second grader did it.

I know JusticePete doesn't think this is going to work, but I've put 18,000 miles on this job in the last year, and my brakes are still quiet. And I drive it hard (at the track and on the street).

JusticePete 12-19-2011 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmcd (Post 4190826)
Now comes the fun part. We're going to lube the hell out of everything - the backs of the pads, the pinholes, the pins and spring, and don't forget the caliper. Any place where metal meets metal and has the potential to vibrate, we're gonna' lube it. And lube it like we mean it. When you're finished lubing, it should look like a second grader did it.

I know JusticePete doesn't think this is going to work, but I've put 18,000 miles on this job in the last year, and my brakes are still quiet. And I drive it hard, too (at the track and on the street).

I do think it will work! Most of the GM Dealers I work with use it on EVERY brake job. However, if you run a track day hard it disappears, evaporates, melts :mad0259:

GREAT POSTS!!!!

kmcd 12-19-2011 05:01 PM

STEP EIGHT
 
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Pre-load the pads into the caliper (if you have enough lube on there, they should stick in place) and slide the caliper over the rotor.

kmcd 12-19-2011 05:05 PM

STEP NINE
 
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Line up the mounting holes, and use a reliable torque wrench to tighten your new bolts to 30 ft-lbs (33 for the fronts).

Next use a braker-bar (you're gonna' need it) to torque each bolt another 90 degrees (torque-to-yield specs per GM). This is easily measured if you start with your bar at the vertical and pull to the horizontal, or vice-versa.

Now would be a good time to enjoy another frosty brew. :drinking:

kmcd 12-19-2011 05:13 PM

STEP TEN
 
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Now set your beer down and reinstall the spring and pins.

Hammer the lower pin into place, and slide the lower end of the spring behind it. Next, depress the upper end of the spring with your hand to keep the tension off the upper pin until you work it into the hole on the outboard side of the caliper.

Once it's in the hole, hammer it until you detect a change in the sound from the hammer (this is how you know it's properly seated).

kmcd 12-19-2011 05:21 PM

STEP ELEVEN
 
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Mount the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 140 ft-lbs.

When you do this on the fronts, it will be necessary to lower the wheels to the deck, or have someone hold their foot on the brake pedal. Either way, you'll need to complete the brake job on both sides first.

kmcd 12-19-2011 05:33 PM

STEP TWELVE
 
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Lift the differential enough to remove your jack stands. Don't forget your hockey pucks or they'll go flying across the autocross course (trust me on this one :rolleyes:).

Lower the rear wheels and move to the fronts.

You may need a low profile jack to reach the forward cross-member, which is a good place to lift the vehicle.

There are some slots on the aft cross-member (just inboard of the sub-frame rails). These make a convenient place to install your homemade jackstand pads.

EM1/SS 12-19-2011 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete (Post 4190724)
I don't like to be the guy bringing a black cloud to a thread, but the Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube will not last anywhere near that long if the car is driven hard. I am actually surprised this isn't being used when customers drive into a GM Dealership. It is a standard practice at places like Rodgers Chevrolet.

What do you think is the longest lasting lube?

kmcd 12-19-2011 05:43 PM

STEP THIRTEEN
 
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Now repeat the same drill you did on the rear brakes.

NOTE: You will need to turn the wheel (this can be done with the pump static as long as you turn the ignition key to unlock the steering) all the way inboard to facilitate pulling your braker-bar through 90 degrees. This will also make the caliper more accessible.

EDIT: See those weights GM installed on the caliper? Get rid of 'em. If they worked, you wouldn't be looking at this thread.

kmcd 12-19-2011 05:51 PM

STEP FOURTEEN
 
Enjoy your non-squealing brakes. I know JusticePete is very knowledgeable about this stuff, and I certainly value his comments, but my fix has lasted 18,000 hard miles, and I tried everything under the sun to resolve this issue. I changed rotors and pads. I removed weights. I added weights. This was the only fix that actually cured the problem.

I hope it works for you as well. ;)

kmcd 12-19-2011 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stieger (Post 4190287)
:paddle: how long exactly have you been sitting on this information?


but anyways...:popcorn:


Sorry, stieger. I know all about your squealing brakes ordeal, but I think you had already traded your car in before I did this. :iono:

The Stig 12-19-2011 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmcd (Post 4191384)
Sorry, stieger. I know all about your squealing brakes ordeal, but I think you had already traded your car in before I did this. :iono:

Oh no I'm not complaining. Those squealing brakes got me a new 2011 Camaro. I just think it's funny that Chevrolet can't figure out a $30 fix.


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