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-   -   Complete Rear bushing and 3.91 gear swap DIY (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289431)

jeremywes 04-15-2013 09:30 AM

Complete Rear bushing and 3.91 gear swap DIY
 
28 Attachment(s)
Here is my rear bushings and 3.91 gear swap build thread. I'm focusing on road racing track preperation but most of these mods will be applicable to all gen 5 camaro owner.


I built a simple tool that worked for the majority of the trailing, toe and control arm bushings. I only had 2" square tube lying around but it worked really well.
Attachment 498018

Here you can see just how well the square tube works
Attachment 498019

For the trailing and toe rods I removed one side of the rubber bushing lip to make it easier to press out. I also used a little heat from a map gas torch to soften things up as I applied some pressure.
Attachment 498020

Attachment 498021

Here is one finished compared to the factory unit
Attachment 498024

Complete
Attachment 498025

On the hub side the square tube also worked well
Attachment 498026

Attachment 498027

Attachment 498028

Last year I installed the pedders allignment bolts front and rear. In the rear I didn't need the full range of adjustment so I didn't open the slot. While I had the subframe out of the car I took the opportunity to open the adjustment slot. I used a long shaft burr. Total job only took 10 minutes.
Attachment 498030

Attachment 498031

Now on to the subframe bushings. I started with the rear bushings by removing the fiberglass tab on the bottom of the bushing so the cup could sit flush.
Attachment 498032

I also cut the rubber tabs so the the press pipe could sit flush on top
Attachment 498033

Here you can see I used a 4" PVC coupler and some 1/2 inch threaded rod. I used my earlier tool as a back plate and the steel cup that is removed from the bottom of the bushing as a top plate.
Attachment 498034

I applied some heat very carefully so I didn't melt the PVC too much. I was able to use the PVC pipe for both sides which only took about 3 minutes each to setup the tool and remove the bushing (Using just hand tools)
Attachment 498035

For the front subframe bushings the bottom cup can be removed by tapping a large screw driver or pry bar from the top.
Attachment 498037

I also had to remove the tab from the front bushing sleeve
Attachment 498038

The front required a 2" threaded cap to press the bushing out from the top.
Attachment 498039

Attachment 498040

I used a cylinder hone to LIGHTLY clean and hone the bushing seat. Sandpaper could have done the same job but I think the hone was much quicker and consistent. Here is the cleaned and painted seat.
Attachment 498041

And.... The finshed bushings
Attachment 498042

Attachment 498043

Next the upper control arm bushing was pressed out by a friend at a local garage using a ball joint press.
Attachment 498044

The differential bushing are like sausage, we like how it tastes but we don't want to see how it's made. It wasn't pretty

First I started by cutting the rubber core and steel ferrule out using a 1 3/4" hole saw. I used WD-40 as a cutting lubricant which kept the blade from binding in the hot rubber.
Attachment 498045

Then I cut the steel jacket in two places using a sawsall (Careful not to cut into the housing) then punched the steel sleeve out using a steel punch and hammer

Here you can see the carnige. The diff bushings were like excerising a demon.
Attachment 498046

I did nick the housing a few times so I carefully filed down the sharp edges and used a little honing, careful not to really remove material but just make it smooth.

Attachment 498048

Attachment 498049

and here it is with the bushing in place. even with the clean-up work it only took about 10 minutes per bushing.
Attachment 498050



More to come. This week I'll be getting a pinion depth guage and showing how I setup my 3.91 gears.

Tyler360 04-15-2013 09:44 AM

Awesome write up! Subscribed and thanks! :thumbup:

was619 04-16-2013 06:06 PM

I have done almost all of the bushings that you have shown here. another way to get the bushings out with out having to make the 'custom' tool out of pvc is heating the out side metal like you showed with a torch and then taking about 3-5 very firm hits on the top of the bushing to 'pop' them out. watch your toes....

Also I would definitely like to see your gear instal instructions. I am installing mine this weekend. And am also waiting for the pinion depth/backlash gauge to arrive.

thanks for the DIY!

jeremywes 04-17-2013 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by was619 (Post 6431092)
I have done almost all of the bushings that you have shown here. another way to get the bushings out with out having to make the 'custom' tool out of pvc is heating the out side metal like you showed with a torch and then taking about 3-5 very firm hits on the top of the bushing to 'pop' them out. watch your toes....

Also I would definitely like to see your gear instal instructions. I am installing mine this weekend. And am also waiting for the pinion depth/backlash gauge to arrive.

thanks for the DIY!

Thats a great tip although I hope to not have to do it again anytime soon!

I should get my depth/backlash gauges this evening but I'm having a hard time finding specs the only one I can confirm is 18-25 inch lbs of rotational torque for the bearing preload.

I still need torque, backlash and pinion depth specs etc. for everything else. do you have any of these specs?

jeremywes 04-17-2013 08:10 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Here is a pic of the finished upper control arm bushings. I hope to have most of the rear cradle assembled this evening

Attachment 499316

Torque Specs that I'll use for the re-assembly. I saved these from another post so I can't take credit for somone elses work here... but hope it helps.
  • 4 Strut Mount to Body Bolts 43lbft
  • Strut to Strut Mount Nut 33lbft
  • Strut to lower Control Arm 59lbft 120 degrees
  • Lower Control Arm Inner Bushing at Adjuster 85LBFT
  • Lower Control Arm at Knuckle Assembly 30lbft 120 degrees
  • Upper Control Arm Rear Bolt to Bushing 37lbft 120 degrees
  • Upper Control Arm Rear Bushing Bracket Bolts 59lbft 120 degrees
  • Upper Control Arm Pivot Joint 59lbft 120 degrees
  • Upper Control Arm to Knuckle Assembly 44LBFT 90 degrees
  • Toe Link inner to Subframe Adjuster 85LBFT
  • Toe Link to Knuckle Assembly Bolt 103 lbft
  • Trailing Arm to Subframe Assembly (Inner) 74lbft
  • Trailing Arm to Knuckle Asembly 30lbft 120 degrees
  • Front Cradle(Subframe) Bolts to Body 74lbft 120 degrees
  • RearCradle (Subframe) Bolts to Body 74lbft 120 degrees
  • Front Differential Bushings 59lbft
  • Rear Differential bushings 59lbft
  • Driveshaft to Differential 85LBFT
  • Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Assembly (L99, LS3) 30lbft 90 degrees
  • Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Assembly (LLT) 30lbft 90 degrees
  • Rear Sway Bar End link Nuts 36lbft
  • Sway bar Bushing Bracket bolts 16lbft
Here I'm installing the upper control arm bracket. After appling some Loctite I torqued the bolts to 59lbft and then 120Deg. I bought this handy little tool to show the degs of rotation.

Attachment 499743

Note: Although some will say it is overkill, TTY (Torque to Yield) bolts should not be reused.

was619 04-17-2013 06:08 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by jeremywes (Post 6433410)
Thats a great tip although I hope to not have to do it again anytime soon!

I should get my depth/backlash gauges this evening but I'm having a hard time finding specs the only one I can confirm is 18-25 inch lbs of rotational torque for the bearing preload.

I still need torque, backlash and pinion depth specs etc. for everything else. do you have any of these specs?

For the backlash I read .005-.007
torque to seat the crush washer I have seen 150-200ftlbs. I haven't read anything on depth except along the line of the pattern looked good and that they didn't feel the need to measure because of it, so non was given.
I have a good article on patterning if you are interested that talked about what adjusts to make and all that.
Also I got my parts in today! Here some teaser pics:
Attachment 499512
Attachment 499513
That is the full Richmond kit from Jegs, along with fluid twice over, and a trick flow multi use gauge kit from summit. The gears are from parts taxi a forum sponsor!

was619 04-18-2013 02:28 AM

From what I have read on a few of the threads on here i won't actually be needing the instal kit. Just the pinion, crush sleeve, nut, and ring gear and fluid. Many said that they were able to use the OE shim setup because of the way its designed and that it makes it much simpilar because of it.
I will still measure for all of the different things and check the pattern but if its all checks out then I will be shipping the instal kit back.

jeremywes 04-18-2013 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by was619 (Post 6437445)
From what I have read on a few of the threads on here i won't actually be needing the instal kit. Just the pinion, crush sleeve, nut, and ring gear and fluid. Many said that they were able to use the OE shim setup because of the way its designed and that it makes it much simpilar because of it.
I will still measure for all of the different things and check the pattern but if its all checks out then I will be shipping the instal kit back.

I'm also hoping that I get lucky and the factory shims get me right back in spec but just incase I want to have the right guages ready to get everything right. Thanks for the pics

jeremywes 04-18-2013 08:36 AM

7 Attachment(s)
I finished collecting all the tools. Some I may not need but wanted anyways and some that are a must have. If I reassemble and the factory shims get everything lined up then great but if I need to adjust some shims it's a lot easier with the right tools.

But I'm sure that GM assembled MY rear end with great care and precision :doh:

So here are my tools

This bearing separator/puller is from Pittsburgh tools and I picked it up for under 30 bucks. I'll used it to separate the yoke from the pinion as well as the pinion bearing.
Attachment 499744

Next is a dial indicator and magnetic base for measuring backlash
Attachment 499745

Attachment 499746

This is a universal pinion depth gauge. I may not need this but I plan on using it on some future jobs when I'll be starting from scratch without the aid of the factory shims.
Attachment 499747

One of the most important tools is this inch pound dial indicating torque wrench. This one that I picked up from summit has a memory dial and a nice case but it wasn't cheap. I paid $200 for this one.
Attachment 499748

I also picked up this assembly bag for a couple bucks that has gear marking compound and well as a brush, loctite and some sealant. It was too convenient to pass up.
Attachment 499749

Last is a 32mm deep well axel nut socket. I had a standard 32mm socket but it wasn't deep enough so I picked this one up from AutoZone for 10 bucks.
Attachment 499750

In addition you'll need standard sockets, a click type lbft torque wrench and a few other common tool which I will highlight as I walk thru the project

jeremywes 04-18-2013 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by was619 (Post 6435595)
For the backlash I read .005-.007
torque to seat the crush washer I have seen 150-200ftlbs. I haven't read anything on depth except along the line of the pattern looked good and that they didn't feel the need to measure because of it, so non was given.
I have a good article on patterning if you are interested that talked about what adjusts to make and all that.
Also I got my parts in today! Here some teaser pics:
Attachment 499512
Attachment 499513
That is the full Richmond kit from Jegs, along with fluid twice over, and a trick flow multi use gauge kit from summit. The gears are from parts taxi a forum sponsor!

You may want to check if you need to run a friction modifier additive with that fluid. I run Royal purple and it says no friction modifier is needed but better safe than sorry.

was619 04-20-2013 12:02 PM

Jeremywes. That bearing puller kit won't work by the way.
It's not nearly big enough.
Might want to go get the bigger one before you start

was619 04-20-2013 12:08 PM

I have used their(redline) friction modifier in the past with no change in gear noise from the stock setup. So I'm not really sure how much it matters. I originally bought a 5oz bottle so ill just use the other half when I get ready to refill it all

was619 04-21-2013 01:49 PM

Just for clarification purposes
Redline gear oil does not need friction modifier as per the bottle. Mobile 1 does since there are no markings of it having modifier in there.

332 04-22-2013 07:38 AM

Thank you for this DIY thread! Very informative!!!

jeremywes 04-22-2013 09:48 AM

3.91 Gear swap
 
34 Attachment(s)
On to the 3.91 gear swap.

I was impressed by this little cordless impact gun. It handled 90% of the work, however I did have to use a more powerful corded impact gun for some of the heavy lifting
Attachment 501188

Attachment 501189
This puller was too small so I had to open it up with a grinder but I was able to make it work. a 3 arm puller would have worked better.

Attachment 501190
Here is a picture after the yoke is removed

Attachment 501191
Next I marked the bearing caps left and right with a small chisel

Attachment 501192
Here you can see that I have layed everything out exactly how it came out of the housing so I can ensure it goes back in the same way.

Attachment 501193
To remove the pinion I hammered it over a piece of wood so it had something to fall on.

Attachment 501194
Here is the pinion removed from the housing

Attachment 501195
Next remove the bolts that attach the ring.
NOTE: These are reverse thread bolts (lefty tighty, Righty Loosey)

Attachment 501196
Once the bolts have been removed tap the ring off, I had to gently pry to get it started. Again I used a piece of wood so it could fall safely

Attachment 501197
I placed the carrier in the freezer and the ring on a propane BBQ. They went together very easily after that. Otherwise they would need to be pressed on.

Attachment 501198

Attachment 501199

Attachment 501200

Next using the new bolts from the GM kit I attached the ring

Attachment 501201
I removed and reused the old pinion bearing using a friends press. I would have just used a new one but the car only has 3k miles on it and the local dealer didn't carry it in stock.

Now same operation for the pinion bearing.

Attachment 501202
Here you can see the old pinion, shim, bearing, crush sleeve. Make sure it goes back on the pinion the exact same way.

Attachment 501203
Here is the old crush sleeve compared to the new one

Attachment 501204
I made a little tool out of 2" PVC pipe to tap the bearing on. It didn't take much pressure to tap it on once the pinion had been in the freezer and the bearing was heated.

Attachment 501205
Next CLEAN the pinion yoke by scraping all of the white factory paste out of the splines. Grease the inner bearing and crush sleeve to make sure it doesn't bind when you begin re-assembly.

Here I am using a pry bar and two of the yoke bolts to get some leverage as I tighten the pinion nut down to crush the pinion crush sleeve. Here is where a strong impact gun will come in handy

Attachment 501206
This is the tricky part. Tighten the pinion nut until you achieve 18 - 25 inch pounds of rotational torque. Work in slow bursts and take your time because you can't un-crush if you go past the torque range of bearing preload.

Attachment 501207
Once you have the proper rotational torque pin the pinion nut by punching it into the pinion recess

Attachment 501208
Now insert the carrier into the housing keeping all of the bearing races and shims on the same sides that they came from.

Attachment 501209
Here I used a 2x4 to tap the left side shim into place.

Attachment 501210
Now install the bearing caps and torque to spec. I used 77ftlbs

NOTE: GM makes 3 different rear ends so make sure you know what you have. I am installing this into a 2012 SS with the 218mm axles

Remember to use anti-seize anytime a steel bolt goes into an aluminum housing

Attachment 501211
Here are some GM spec that a friend printed out for me

Attachment 501212
I made a steel plate so I could get the magnetic base dial indicator to attach to the housing.

Attachment 501213
Here is the zeroed dial indicator

Attachment 501214
Here the backlash is .003" GM spec is .002 - .005

Attachment 501215

Attachment 501216
Here you can see the pattern on the DRIVE side of the ring gear teeth

Attachment 501217
Here you can see the pattern on the COAST side of the ring gear teeth

Attachment 501218
Next reinstall the case cover. I used 55lbft

Remember to use anti-seize anytime a steel bolt goes into an aluminum housing

Attachment 501219
Remember the gear lube WITH a friction modifier

Attachment 501220
Here are some GM specs

Attachment 501221
Here is where you can see what rear end your car has. You can see mine is a 218mm axle

jeremywes 04-29-2013 08:35 AM

Update- I corrected the Axle ratio with a diablo tunner so now the TC is happy and speed is registering correctly. I do notice a very subtle vibration from the diff bushings but no normal person could tell the difference. I finished my initial break-in on the gears and tried a few 75% 0-60 pulls and you can really notice the torque down low.

IPT 05-01-2013 04:26 AM

excellent write up and great skills you got, awesome. I can only imagine the pull with those gears!

driyac 05-01-2013 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IPT (Post 6490901)
excellent write up and great skills you got, awesome. I can only imagine the pull with those gears!

Times a billion! You should open up a shop ( just kidding). You have been very detailed and meticulous with your build.

jeremywes 05-01-2013 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IPT (Post 6490901)
excellent write up and great skills you got, awesome. I can only imagine the pull with those gears!

They do pull hard, even when cruising at higher speeds. 1st gear is a neck snapper!

Quote:

Originally Posted by driyac (Post 6491243)
Times a billion! You should open up a shop ( just kidding). You have been very detailed and meticulous with your build.

Thanks guys! I hope this build helps anyone wanting to do it on their own.

silverz28 05-01-2013 09:46 AM

Great "How To"! Although I would probably not do this myself on my daily driver. I love the freezer and BBQ. Great way to expand and contract metal.

hairzee 05-02-2013 12:47 AM

WOW. You da man!

I have started my front bushing replacement and have one done.... what a pain in the ass this is going to be.

I had the gear swap done at a shop for couple hundred... small price to pay for me not screwing that up.

thanks for your time and knowledge.... VERY much appreciated.

jeremywes 05-02-2013 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hairzee (Post 6494754)
WOW. You da man!

I have started my front bushing replacement and have one done.... what a pain in the ass this is going to be.

I had the gear swap done at a shop for couple hundred... small price to pay for me not screwing that up.

thanks for your time and knowledge.... VERY much appreciated.

It is a pain in the ass for sure! But well worth it. If you can do it over several days it makes it easier. The whole project took me a little over 10 hours over the course of 2 weekends and a few beers

Good luck

PfadtRacing 05-02-2013 02:24 PM

Great write-up!

hairzee 05-03-2013 12:06 PM

1 Attachment(s)
How do i grt the new bushings in. I dont see anyone else having a problem with this step. So what am I missing here.

jeremywes 05-04-2013 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hairzee (Post 6500363)
How do i grt the new bushings in. I dont see anyone else having a problem with this step. So what am I missing here.

I'm not sure about this one. Post as a new thread and I'm sure you'll get a solution from someone who has already done it! Good luck


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