Various members built engine components
Edit by SSE 4 2SS: This thread is to list the components used in your build (rotating assembly) if you wish to share. It is to assist others planning builds in seeing the variety of components used in your build. If you have a built rotating assembly, feel free to add in other engine components...
Discussion is welcome, but will occasionally be cleaned up as the thread moves on.
I know there's a lot of you guys that have built your engines for boost. Maybe we could get a thread going for what components were used and what HP/TQ levels it was built to withstand etc. I know Ive been doing alot of research but it would be nice to see a thread where all the top guys listed what they have built. Good idea or a pipe dream?
Edit: I had a couple bite so here is the proposed format (thanks Tiny). Share what you'd like.
CI? - CR?
Modifications (pulleys, boost controller, etc)
Cats or No Cats?
What was the goals for the engine hp/tq wise? Current numbers is you have them and would like to share.
So let me be the clown that opens the stage for the rest...:biggrin:
custom build LSA Block
376cui - 10.3 cr
Callies Billet Forged Crankshaft
Callies Compstar H-Beams w/ARP Bolts
Wiseco Super Duty Pistons (coated)
Total Seal Steel Piston Rings
Ported LS3 Heads
JRE rough idle cam & valve train kit
Rollmaster Timing Chain
GMPP blueprinted HV oil pump
ATI Super Damper (6% overdrive)
JRE Maggie Max Stg.1 (NW102mm TB, ported intake snout)
JRE ported lower intake manifold
OD Cog Drive
JRE Super Tensioner
Water Meth Injection
Rotofab CAI with JRE race scoop / washer bottle reloc.
LPE Twin Pump w/ JRE wiring upgrade
MSD PFVB (not hooked up yet)
Kooks 1 7/8'' LTs coated
stock exhaust w/ SLP LMII axle-backs
675rwhp / 676ft-lbs @ 12.6psi
3.4 Pulley & IW 8-rib drive still to come
The bare engine was build by Henrik's Racing Houston, TX
The rest finished by a local shop in Germany.
Ted Jannetty does the tune and patiently provides "post build" advice - props to Ted, couldn't be in better hands!!!
Guess I'll start. I broke the ringlands on #5 in my OE motor at 11 psi and 715whp and i knew it was gonna happen so i had HKE start on this motor before it happened.
I built it for minimum of 20 psi and planned for about 1200 whp eventually and i believe it will take quite a bit more. Its just a fun street car that will probably never see the strip. Built it more for road course track day events about 4 times a year.
Currently have my D1SC from my old motor and am at 14psi and 758whp 711 wtq measured on Kurt Decker's mustang dyno and tuned by Pat G.
Motor: Built by Erik Koenig at HKE racing engines.
4.125" Wiseco -23CC blower pistons coated by Polydyne, 9.4 to 9.5:1 CR
Dragon Slayer 4.00" crank
Callies Ultra billet I beam rods
Wiseco GFX rings and custom tool steel pins .200"
ARP hardware throughout
Morel linkbar lifters
PatG spec'd blower cam
Mast Blacklabel 305 6 bolt heads LS7
Melling HV oil pump
N-Motion LS7 double roller timing chain
GM LS7 intake and exhaust rockers
HKE springs and push rods
Squash dual 400LPH return style _10an feed, -8 return
ALKY 4 gal methdual nozzle system
Tuned on 93 octane with 16oz Torco for about 96 octane. Tune by James Karger
Twin PTE6766 turbos, custom fabbed by SNLPerformance in progress and damn near done!!!!
The rest of the car is done, see sig line
Tiny and Bull that's exactly what I was looking for. It helps when you can see the component's of someone's build that's working well. As for keeping this organized I'm not sure how we can do that since Jamie seems to be taking a beating in every thread. If we get some more guys to chime in with their builds/component lists we can delete the other posts and only show the build lists. I know some people don't want to share all their secrets but its a start for a rookie to see what it takes to build a high performance and somewhat reliable (in Jamies case) machine.
Just be careful - that's the internet...
It's all in the shop that specs out an engine, builds it and eventually tunes it! Just because it's been posted here doesn't guarantee its quality!
For collecting ideas this thread is a good idea though!
Block – LS3
CI – 417 CR – 10.1:1
Crankshaft – Callies Dragonslayer
Rods – Oliver I beam
Pistons - JE
Rings – Total Seal file fit
Heads – LS3 – CNC port & polish
Valves/Springs – 2.165” hollow intake / 1.59” inconnel exhaust - Comp 921 springs, titanium retainers
Cam – GT-9
Timing Chain – C5R
Oil pump – GM high volume
Aftermarket Dampner - no
Anything else - ported TB
Type – None yet. AGP twin turbo hopefully.
Modifications (pulleys, boost controller, etc) - probably
Pump – Stock for now, thinking Squash when FI
Injectors – ID850s
Meth – Most likely in conjunction with FI
Headers – ARH 1 7/8, Swaintech coated. Will be for sale if/when AGP twin turbo happens.
Cats or No Cats – ARH cats
Cat back – No
Cut outs – Not now, but maybe in the future
What was the goals for the engine hp/tq wise – No goals, just strength for now.
Current numbers is you have them and would like to share – 453/437
Always willing to help people out, I frequently do. I also frequently poke fun and mess around in threads. If someone asked me for advice, I'd be happy to help.
I could give you sbc info all day but my Camaro still has the stock L99, never even had the intake or rocker covers off. I can say if it blows, if the cylinder walls are still good, Ill just have it honed, put a good set of rods, pistons, rings, a good VVT cam, dod delete lifters, good arp hardware, and bolt it back together. Stock heads, intake, crank, etc.are plenty good IMO for a forced induction application.
Depends on the desired hp levels. FI can be but as tame a NA, all depends on dynamic compression, not boost. Yes boost comes into play in that equation, but boost really means nothing to a motor. After 800 wheel I'm going for a new crankshaft, and after quadruple digits I've got a new block and heads headed my way, 6 bolt or bust. I'll go through my build sheets and give you guys a full rundown of my motor soon.
Sorry blown motors cost a butt load of money when they're built for stupid high horsspower, but they do, and always will. Here you guys go anyways, a fully detailed build sheet. This motor is designed to hold 1500hp and not complain about it.
Block: LSX Short deck
Rods: Callies I Beams, ARP hardware
Pistons: Wiseco units, were gas ported to keep rings gapped.
Rings: Wiseco Rings
Heads: LSX-LS3 6 bolt heads, fully ported
Valves/Springs: PRC Dual springs
Cam: Custom TSP Blower cam, I don't give the specs on it though.
Timing Chain: Cloyes Hex-a-just
Oil pump: Melling High volume
Aftermarket Dampner: ATI 10 Rib
Anything else: Lunati Valvetrain
Blower: Maggie now, F1X with spray or Twins next.
Maggie has 10 rib drive, OD cogs and a 2.95 pulley making 16psi.
Also to clarify, I meant to get across that this habit is expensive and shouldn't be taken lightly. That's my advice, make a budget and double it.
Its members with builds like yours I'm looking at, so I can build this winter.
Thanks for posting it up bud..
No problem, feel free to PM me if you want some more info.
I also have a stand alone nitrous system with a 240 liter/hr walbro pump within the 1.5 gallon tank used to mix with the nitrous... I have dual 15 lb nitrous bottles in the trunk with heaters.
All this and the supporting mods allow me to cruise around with 900+rwhp on the streets.... add in C-16 racefuel and turn the boost controller on and htfo....
One off custom built TR6060 with billet gears 1st through 5th...
Nine Inch with Strange center section, and a wavetrack diff, 3.07 gears
Pedders XA supercar coilovers and all associated bushings and bars...
Someone mentioned the cost of these builds... build a budget and then at least double it and that's if nothing breaks... It was also mentioned that the cost is high... I said before I have more under the hood than most Camaro owners have on rubber... It's just the cost of running a super big build car.... I will say to be reasonable with the goals.... This is now my third motor, (factory, blown one and my new one) 6th trans before we could get one to shift... mine has an internal shift mech rather than the floating external mech that comes with the cars... 4th driveshaft, third clutch... factory, and then the first aftermarket clutch I bought sucked... turbos 7 and 8... first two lasted less than a week... mismatch on the oiling orifice fittings, the third and 4th lasted a year, and we upgraded them, then blew them up overspinning them, and my new turbos are just going in the car....
Let me finish by saying my car has been and remains a test bed.... My builder and I collaborate on every step... The recommendations are his and when it's dicey, the final decision is always mine....though occasionally he will refuse to do something... my goals exceed the build sometimes...he brings me back to earth... Every component that has failed other than the first two turbos was my call... At the Texas Mile, I made a pass, pushed some water through the head gasket, and I decided to go ahead and turn the bottle on for another pass... to set the record... We already had the new heads at the shop being ported... Well, that pass cost me a motor and heads... and still didn't set the record... again, my call...
As mentioned, if going all out, plan a budget and double or triple it... Power not on the ground is wasted... and broken cars that cant be fixed financially are tough to swallow....
My car is not built for drag racing though we do that occasionally for fun.. It's built for land speed runs.... well in excess of 200 mph....
Ok, I've cleaned up this thread for its intended purpose...
Comments and conversation are invited, but try to keep it on track, and keep in mind, even the guys with big builds have a strong sense of humor and we pick on each other mercilessly most of the time... But I know any of the guys posting in this thread so far will go out of their way to help any other member with guidance... suggestions... etc...
All of the guys that have posted in here so far have built big power cars and have managed to break something, somethings multiple times... me for example
As was mentioned by one member, these builds are no guarantee of a successful build.... It boils down to quality of mechanical build, and tuning....
The best advice I can offer is to shop around for a builder you trust and can develop a relationship with.... unless you have the honest ability to do it yourself... My builder and I are best friends... I trust him implicitly with my car.... I also have a friend that has been to multiple shops and still has a garage queen.. Be careful.... ask lots of questions, and research....
I'll attempt to keep this thread on topic, but occasionally it will drift with a sense of humor... Again, everyone that has posted in here so far will help all they can with any questions you might have, or steer you in the right direction for proper answers...
looks like we are off to a decent start 2ss45th FINALLY posted something useful. Keep the builds comming. I know this isnt a buy these parts and it will live forever but its nice to see what combos work together.
Excellent thread now. I wish something like this was available a year ago.
Here's another engine that I have sitting disassembled, built for 750 wheel. Kind of like a nice DD blown motor, nothing too serious, but it will hold a decent amount of power.
Crankshaft: Stock Nodular Crank, needs main studs to reduce flex.
Rods: K1 lightweight H Beams, ARP hardware
Pistons: Wisecos, gas ports not needed.
Rings: Wiseco Rings
Heads: LS3 4 bolt heads, ARP studs, inconel exhaust valve recommended.
Valves/Springs: PRC Dual springs
Cam: Lingenfelter GT9 cam is a great driving cam, and doesn't bleed off boost.
Timing Chain: Cloyes Hex-a-just
Oil pump: Melling High volume
Aftermarket Dampner: ATI Rib count depends on blower used. Maggie I recommend 8.
Anything else: If using a turbo, a set of the ZR1 sodium filled exhaust valves would be great.
Keeping the stock stroke makes the crank and rods less susceptible to failure. The angles that the rods are exposed to are less aggressive. Pistons do better with the 3.622 stroke as well. I wouldn't go more than 5 thou over on the cylinder walls either.
Good thread here, I'm gonna watch this closely as I ponder my engine setup. Until then we'll see how far the stock one takes me. What I wonder is I see a lot of people going 376, 408 LQ Blocks, 416, 427, etc. Would you just build a ci bigger engine for a power goal or is it optimized really for a particular setup.
For instance I'm probably sticking with my novi 1500 and I'm thinking staying stock cube with that blower is my best bet.
We have had the same discussion with my build back and forth. My plan was as well to go down the stroker route. But even with my current compression (10.3) there would not have been enough blower (maggie) to run 418ci efficiently. It can be done, some are even running their 427s with a Maggie - but imho that should be whipple or centrifigual territory.
At the end of the day I'm happy with running stock cubes rather than taking the additonal stress that go along with a stroker. Driving on the German Autobahn at 150++mph for longer periods you do want to be sure, that the engine can take it!
My initial plan was to duplicate this build, but now I'm being inexplicably drawn to twin turbos...
I was leaning right now honestly to a 408 LQ9 Block. Something I can re-use my stock heads. I know your adding more weight over the nose to an already heavy car but I think its worth it for strength? I've also been contemplating selling the novi and buying the motor. Perhaps twin turbo.
I didn't mind the extra weight, it ended up being like 80lbs heavier. The iron block has much thicker sleeves, so that's part of it. The main reason I have the LSX is the six bolt heads, they become necessary after that 1000 wheel mark. I'm either running a set of 63s or an F1X with a direct port shot, maybe in the 250 range. To run nitrous and a blower I would recommend that you have the pistons gas ported, it keeps the rings from collapsing and is usually only 15 to 20 bucks a piston. I can't find the picture of mine right now, but this is a great example of them:
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