Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com

Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/index.php)
-   Suspension / Brakes / Chassis (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=93)
-   -   brake pad swap (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320949)

driser 10-01-2013 05:48 PM

brake pad swap
 
Just finished up a track weekend at Road Atlanta with Hawk DTC 30 pads (front)... much improved braking. No significant decrease in braking from the start of the sessions to the end (30 minutes).

Now it is time to swap back to the Hawk street pad, so looking for any advice from those that are pros at this. Hoping to try it without removing the calipers, so if someone has been doing this, please give me some insight.

This was also the first time out with the Michelin Super Sports....what a great tire. Highly recommend for anyone who is looking for a street/track tire. Expensive, but worth every penny coming down the hill to turn 12!

Thanks

JOHNSONROD 10-01-2013 11:35 PM

its really easy. just take your time. after the first time you can do it in a few minutes a wheel. who was the group that you ran with at rd atlanta? im hoping to go with nasa in december.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=diy+brake+pad

driser 10-02-2013 06:24 AM

Chin motorsports is the group I run with.

Synner 10-02-2013 11:57 AM

pop the pins out
remove pad
push pistons back in slightly if necessary
Lube back of pad and insert pad
Lube pins and insert pins
clean rotor/pad with brake cleaner anywhere you, your fingers, or anything else touched braking surface

If you weren't drinking beer through each step you're doing it wrong.

Orange Crush 1LE 10-02-2013 12:02 PM

I had understood that it's not a good idea to swap pad types without turning the rotors, because the residual material from the previous pad is still on the disk and prevents proper braking with the new pad.

But I've also heard that you can do just what you're doing- swap in track pads at the track, then swap back.

Are there any brake gurus out there that could shed some light on which is true?

Thanks

Synner 10-02-2013 12:07 PM

Typically if you stick with the same manufacturer their compounds are compatible but it doesn't hurt to ask before purchasing. But yes pad residue from an old pad can cause overheating and poor performance leading to gunked up everything with embedded pad/rotor material.

Synner 10-02-2013 12:17 PM

...and you may need to re-bed the pads to the rotors and go through the break in procedure again before the next track day to scrub the rotor and have it ready for action.

SPCBA 10-02-2013 02:15 PM

Always good to brake cleaner and steal wool or sand paper off the old pad and do a proper bed in process on new pads.

driser 10-02-2013 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synner (Post 7056537)
pop the pins out
remove pad
push pistons back in slightly if necessary
Lube back of pad and insert pad
Lube pins and insert pins
clean rotor/pad with brake cleaner anywhere you, your fingers, or anything else touched braking surface

If you weren't drinking beer through each step you're doing it wrong.

Thanks for all of the info...do you have a recomendation for the lube?

So Cal Camaro 10-02-2013 04:24 PM

Outside of being a little noisy, I run my track pads all the time and I believe Jordan from JDP runs the same pad that you are and he runs his on both the street/track.

TBone 10-02-2013 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driser (Post 7057001)
Thanks for all of the info...do you have a recomendation for the lube?

YES, Permatex® CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant..
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...bricant-detail
http://www.permatex.com/images/stori...duct/24125.jpg

Higher temps and it works well for both the street and track.

You can find it on the shelf at Advanced Auto.

T.

driser 10-03-2013 07:17 AM

Thanks.

Yea I can put up with the noise, but it is the dust on the new Forgelines (polished) that I can't handle. They cleaned up easy (thanks to Adams), but even short drives end up with too much dust.

Synner 10-03-2013 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBone (Post 7057380)
YES, Permatex® CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant..
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...bricant-detail
http://www.permatex.com/images/stori...duct/24125.jpg

Higher temps and it works well for both the street and track.

You can find it on the shelf at Advanced Auto.

T.

Yup thats the best stuff I've ever found as well as longest lasting. Although whoever came up with the purple color should be shot.

So Cal Camaro 10-03-2013 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driser (Post 7058724)
Thanks.

Yea I can put up with the noise, but it is the dust on the new Forgelines (polished) that I can't handle. They cleaned up easy (thanks to Adams), but even short drives end up with too much dust.

Yup, the dust is the other issue....I make sure my Forgeline's have a good layer of wax on them at all times....then just blow them off with air compressor.

JusticePete 10-03-2013 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driser (Post 7058724)
Thanks.

Yea I can put up with the noise, but it is the dust on the new Forgelines (polished) that I can't handle. They cleaned up easy (thanks to Adams), but even short drives end up with too much dust.

Quote:

Originally Posted by So Cal Camaro (Post 7061425)
Yup, the dust is the other issue....I make sure my Forgeline's have a good layer of wax on them at all times....then just blow them off with air compressor.

Switching back and forth between an aggressive track pad and street pad really isn't and issue other than noise. The higher the brake pad operating temperature, the more aggressive the pad is a good rule of thumb. Your track pads are leaving that much residue, because:biggrin: the dust on the wheel is mostly from the rotor . Run Cobalt Friction XR1 in front and XR 2 or 3 in the rear and I can assure you your rotors will get 'turned' and be ready for your street pad. Of course you'll be going through rotors more frequently, but you will stop.

Brake dust is mostly iron rotor dust. It turn to a rust / concrete when it gets wet if you don't wash them immediately. You can't use wheel cleaner because they all dull the finish. The brake dust scratches when you touch it so a clean bucket of water loaded with car wash soap and a clean wash mitt for each wheel is standard operating procedure. With a Forgeline polished wheel a Powerball, cordless drill, Billet polish and Never Dull wadding are your best friend, but you already knew that ;)

I love the look too and know your pain first hand.

So Cal Camaro 10-03-2013 08:49 PM

Pete, I already have had the fun of cleaning the wheels after they got wet, at Run to the Music City, it rained a lot, brakes while wet made a very big mess....fortunately, my wheels are all powdercoated....

JusticePete 10-03-2013 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by So Cal Camaro (Post 7061562)
Pete, I already have had the fun of cleaning the wheels after they got wet, at Run to the Music City, it rained a lot, brakes while wet made a very big mess....fortunately, my wheels are all powdercoated....

If they made ssreets out of that stuff they would last for centuries :pound:

driser 10-04-2013 06:31 PM

I sprayed the wheels with Adams Quick Sealant Spray, and all of the rubber and dust came off really easy. Really easy to put on too. I'm going to spray the rocker panels next time instead of tape, to see if clean up is easier than messing with the tape.

Thanks for all of the advice, switching back to street pads this weekend.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:11 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.