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-   -   bmr solid cradle bushings and diff (http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=334562)

Roger Stattel 12-28-2013 07:26 PM

bmr solid cradle bushings and diff
 
Hey the job is in progress and the instructions say to pull the whole cradle out? Is there a way to leave the cradle in and still switch them out. Also does the suspension have to be taken out?

SlowTurtle 12-28-2013 07:40 PM

drop cradle 1 inch. put socket between bushing and frame. jack cradle until car lifts off jackstands. apply mapp gas torch to bushing hole, trying to heat it as uniformly as possible. wait until bushing pops out. takes 30 minutes for all 4 and suuspension stays.

tanur420 12-28-2013 07:48 PM

would that also be adequate clearance to install the trailing arms/toe rod? i cant remember which, but i read one of them needs cradle dropped to install because a bolt wont clear

Roger Stattel 12-28-2013 08:23 PM

So just take off the 4 main bolts on the cradle and the weight will cause it to drop an inch? And thanks for your help, I figured there would be an easier way than pulling the entire cradle. What size socket did u wedge in there? Is it safe using a torch so close to gas tank?

Synner 12-28-2013 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tanur420 (Post 7292680)
would that also be adequate clearance to install the trailing arms/toe rod? i cant remember which, but i read one of them needs cradle dropped to install because a bolt wont clear

Lowered not dropped, the process is the same. Remove 2 bolts and loosen the other side, do your work, switch sides and repeat.

You need to undo a fuel pump harness connector and pop the parking brake cables out as well. I had to undo the lower shock bolt as well since the shocks were preventing it from dropping as much as I needed it to. I believe that was all.

Synner 12-28-2013 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roger Stattel (Post 7292760)
So just take off the 4 main bolts on the cradle and the weight will cause it to drop an inch? And thanks for your help, I figured there would be an easier way than pulling the entire cradle. What size socket did u wedge in there? Is it safe using a torch so close to gas tank?

Removing all 4 at once while you're underneath it will result in your death if you're not bracing everything with a heavy duty jack. Assuming you also need to remove the shock bolts which I definitely had to. Nothing will be holding your cradle up at that point other than your brake lines. Don't.

Remove 2, loosen 2. Ensure adequate thread engagement to not let it strip and fall on you.

Bo White 12-28-2013 09:01 PM

Your going to have to undo the strut from the lower control arm to get the cradle low enough to do the rear bushings in the cradle. You can get the old rear bushing out but putting the BMR bushing in your going to have to drop it lower than 1". The alignment stud is the problem.

SlowTurtle 12-28-2013 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synner (Post 7292839)
Removing all 4 at once while you're underneath it will result in your death if you're not bracing everything with a heavy duty jack. Assuming you also need to remove the shock bolts which I definitely had to. Nothing will be holding your cradle up at that point other than your brake lines. Don't.

Remove 2, loosen 2. Ensure adequate thread engagement to not let it strip and fall on you.

The shocks will actually hold it up, however I wouldnt recommend loosening all four at once. I removed three and loosened the fourth and just worked in a circle.

Synner 12-28-2013 10:45 PM

True, but mine had to come out to get it low enough for the bushings to do in and stockers cut out. At the time I did it no one knew about the heating and socket method, not sure if that changes things.

randy's2012 12-29-2013 09:54 AM

Just got done last week installing the solid cradle bushings on my 2012 SS. I did like the guys on here said about just the rear frame down one side at a time. It took some work to get the back ones out due to the guide that is part of the frame and goes inside the rear cradle bushing itself. That steel guide that is part of the frame sticks down another 3 inches which made it harder to work the old one out and to get the new one in. But was able to do it no problem just take some time. Changed all four in less then 4 hours from start to finish without removing exhaust or dropping the frame out of the car. Also replaced the springs all the way around at the same time dropping the car 1" (at least I think it is only 1"). Got a 4 wheel alignment and am ready for spring time to roll around.

Roger Stattel 12-29-2013 09:59 PM

Ok so my subframe bushings were a cake walk doing it that way. Unfortunately I am having trouble getting the rear differential front driver side bushing out. I already drilled out the center using a 2" hole saw so have to continue. All that is left is bushing sleeve. I tried to start using a screwdriver to get it out from back side but am struggling because of the rear diff housing and the angle I have to chisel at. Any suggestions?

SlowTurtle 12-29-2013 10:18 PM

sawzall the bushing case in half. once its cut through the bushing will lose all tension and come right out. take care not to butcher your housing in the process

Roger Stattel 12-29-2013 10:38 PM

I don't know if I trust my self but will have to try that if no other suggestions.

wakespeak 12-29-2013 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlowTurtle (Post 7292669)
drop cradle 1 inch. put socket between bushing and frame. jack cradle until car lifts off jackstands. apply mapp gas torch to bushing hole, trying to heat it as uniformly as possible. wait until bushing pops out. takes 30 minutes for all 4 and suuspension stays.

Do you mean heat the metal around the bushing or the center of the bushing? The fronts are close to the gas tank which makes me a bit nervous. Are you heating from below the cradle in a circular movement around the bushing?

Roger Stattel 12-29-2013 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wakespeak (Post 7295494)
Do you mean heat the metal around the bushing or the center of the bushing? The fronts are close to the gas tank which makes me a bit nervous. Are you heating from below the cradle in a circular movement around the bushing?

Well after doing it today. I had to heat for like 30 sec And then just evenly heat the exterior of the bushing housing. Front were quick rears took a bit more time. Evenly apply heat while the cradle is under load with socket on top and it will slide downward. I used a brass plumbing fitting to make sure the entire bushing dropped and not just the inner part.
Don't be alarmed if it begins to smoke. Some may be melting but will be fine.

SlowTurtle 12-30-2013 12:47 AM

^ Yep. Piece of cake once you see how easy it really is - once the factory glue gets hot it stops holding.

JCunningham 01-01-2014 12:30 AM

so you dont have to heat them up so hot the paint burns?

Bo White 01-01-2014 12:34 AM

No, its actually not hot enough to burn the paint on the cradle. Front ones heated up pretty easy but the larger rear ones took a bit. Once you see the fiberglass casing start to boil out from around the bushing your getting there, start applying pressure to the bushing.

JCunningham 01-01-2014 01:13 AM

thanks

JCunningham 04-13-2014 06:08 AM

looks like from seeing the instructions from BMR to do the upper control arm bushing you need to drop the cradle 3"

BMR Sales 04-14-2014 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCunningham (Post 7577053)
looks like from seeing the instructions from BMR to do the upper control arm bushing you need to drop the cradle 3"

Yeah, it's easier that way, just gives you a little more room to work with. I changed out mine without dropping the cradle at all. It wasn't exactly easy, but I did it!!!

2SShowngo 05-11-2014 07:10 AM

Thanks to Bo White
 
3 Attachment(s)
Bo gave me the advise I needed and it really was a piece of cake.

Bo White 05-11-2014 09:01 AM

Your welcome fella, now go get an alignment and enjoy!


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