comp cam failure
 

So I started getting a chirp and eventually a bad lifter tick. Did some research . Led me to believe i needed to pull the heads. I pulled the Valley cover first to see what u could see. Cam looks bad I think . But there are Mark's all over the block and around the holes you can see the cam through. Wondering if this is normal or not ? What do you guys think? Thanks for the help. Oh . Valley cover has never been removed before . Car has 36k miles on it.

Yep, cams gotta come out and so do the lifters. Heads come off too for that. Who’s cam is it? Factory? Hard to know based on your signature...

-Don

It's a comp cam. I figured I'd be pulling it . It sounded pretty bad. Got it home asap and havent started it since.

I'm figuring the areas of the block that look almost dremeled come from the factory like that ? Just looks a little crazy at first.

Yea, factory does that. That is another Comp failure. Not a whole lot vs sold but, more than a few have failed. Time for a Cam Motion...

-Don

Thanks for the responses Don. Yah I'm going to go with a cam that pairs a little better with my turbo now anyways. I went with this one when I thought I was going to stay NA. Car will probably be down for a few weeks while I plan it all out.

I could've told you that's a Comp Cam from the first picture. Google camshaft grinder burn. Mass produced crap that they don't pay attention to every aspect of the cam grinding process, that is the result. Ruined heat treating and soft lobes. The wheels on a lifter are an incredibly hard Rockwell. If the cam is too soft it will eat right into the lobe, you can see the sunken track real good on that one lobe. If the heat treat is OK, too much spring pressure. Work with the next cam supplier on the perfect spring pressure for the application.

Next rebuild, go with a better cam grinder... Cam Motion, Texas Speed... and go with their best cam core material.

I'd pull it completely down, there is going to be material embedded in the bearings - mains/rods/cam... pump will be scored... freshen that whole thing up. Talk to the cam grinder at Texas Speed, he'll explain all they do to avoid grinder burn. I would have the lifter bores bushed too. After a cam failure some of those lifter bores may be less than perfect. At least check them all with a snap gauge to make sure no taper, and approx .001" lifter to lifter bore clearance.

I'm just about ready for my new cam project. Unofficial poll - who's the best for a blown LS99 street mod:

1. BTR
2. TSP
3. Cam Motion
4. Comp Cams

Thanks for the advice. I'm likely going with tsp or cam motion either way. My tune is by pat g and I'm trying to get cam specd by him now. . I'll post up some pics as I go.

I had a CompCam fail on me and took the entire block with it. Less than 20k miles and the lifters ate through the lobes and filled the block with shavings which destroyed the crank races. CompCams never again. CamMotion core in a PER Racing Engines 418 is what's in there now. Most expensive cam job in history. Ugh.. sorry but hope you caught it in time. Cannot believe this is still happening to people.

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Yikes, sorry to hear that .. I hope I did too. I got it in the garage pretty quick. Once I heard the ticking . Did you have to pull the block to see the crank race damage ? Or were there other signs? I didnt notice metal in the oil when I drained it.

Makes me rethink using Comp Cams products. I used to swear by them.

Shoot, now I'm leaning toward pulling the motor out. And thoroughly inspecting everything.

glad i was reminded of the comp cam's legacy..

I built a 383 stroker for my 2001 ls1 vette three yr ago and ordered a comp cam. When i got the cam i could see chadder markes on two of the lobes. Sent it back and comps reps told me it was fine. I sad its not going in my engine and eventualy got them to send me another one. Anyway there was a rash of them wiping lobes and making whining noises . I wont ever buy another comp cam.