New Blend Door Twist?
 

Believe me, I'm as sick of this subject as you are. I just wanted to ask a question in a new place without searching through multiple page threads.

I had the classic, cool on the driver's side and hot on the passenger side issue and pulled my blend door. It was broken at the actuator just like all of them. 2 1/2 days later, I replaced it with a nice metal door. I have the same problem still. Hot AND cold. Has anyone else experienced this AFTER replacing the door?:bonk:

Edit: it goes from hot to really hot and almost cool. With no a/c. And I can hear it working. As it is now, it will never blow cold a/c.

Jeez! Sorry you are experiencing this. I am going through something as well but not like yours. Ordered a new metal blend door just to keep on hand if needed. But will be taking it in to find out if I'm low on freon and have a leak.

Check the freon lately? The high side port uses a rubber ball valve instead of using a schrader valve and leaks like crazy. GM actually recommends replacing the port every year because they are so prone to leaking.

I went through the same issue and thought mine was the blend door but instead the high side port had leaked all the freon out so I would start there first.

Just copy/pasted my response to another thread with the same issue a couple threads down. Anytime someone posts about ac issues, I always tell them to check this first before anything else.

When I did the 1LE last year. It did the same. I had to have the actuator positions relearned. The shop I worked at had one of those nice scan tools, hooked it up and took less than 5 minutes to do. Then was fine from then on.

Try simply disconnecting the battery for 5 mins. It will reset all the modules.

^^This also happened to me a while after replacing my blend door. Found out it was a high side service port leak. I replaced the high side with a Dorman schrader valve instead of the crappy leak-prone OEM valve, and also replaced the low side with a GM valve. Been great since. It had the same symptoms as Moto-Mojo has.

I also ordered the special socket required to remove the ports without damaging the lines. Made it nice and easy.

Did you have to take it in for service to do this or is this a DIY that we all can do at home without the risk of leaking freon?

Thanks for obliging me, one and all. Here's a few things.

Currently, this issue of hot on one side and cool(er) on the other is WITHOUT ANY A/C on. It's just normal outside air. Obviously, that concerns me that if I had the A/C on it would be pretty hot on the pass side.

Coz3z3 - this is what I'm hoping I can have done. It's way more hot than cold, it's January, so I will probably wait to get it recalibrated. But GREAT info.

PaulsSS - I did that twice. I think maybe I mounted the actuator in the wrong hot v cold position. Is that possible...anyone?

Thanks, again.

Oh, the other MAJOR concern is, if I were to remove the actuator again (that plugs into the blend door via an adapter) and that SOB door came unengaged with the pilot hole in the back and fell in the hole, it would be a total effing redo! Anyone who did the hack knows what I'm talking about. That would send me over the edge.:bonk:

If your system is charged and contains freon, it is not really a diy job as it requires vacuuming the freon out before you replace the port. Remember the high side of the system is under high pressure and removing the port without doing this will cause a pretty catastrophic and possibly deadly accident.

If your system has already leaked everything out and is empty, then yes you can diy.

I would try to get it done sooner than later. If it's wrong, and you're adjusting it constantly, it could break the motor or something else there again. I don't think you could mount the actuator wrong, the 3 holes only line up one way.

That I don't know. When I did mine, I did it by removing the dash and all that. I didn't do the hack.

How long that take you to do it correctly and what was your thoughts on the experience?

Took a weekend for me. I've taken the dash out before though. I put a HUD in that car and my Z/28 so I was no stranger to getting the dash out. That windshield bolt sucked. I cut it with a Dremel and it came right out. Just took a minute. I didn't realize that the box the blend door sits in was plastic welded shut. So I wanted to be careful with that so I could melt it shut again.
I had the new door in and ready to go in a day. The next day was putting it all back together.

I just saw that post about the aluminum blend door though....so that sucks lol. So I'll probably buy one of those shortly and have it eady for if it happens again. And one for the Z.
Overall, I'd do it again. And I'll do the Z/28 if it happens on that.

Try this, start the car and warm up the engine then hold the rpms at 1500 or so. Does that even the heat side to side?