TVS2300 install tips
Anybody install a TVS2300 that knows some tips or tricks that will help with the install?
For example- when installing headers, heating the O2 sensors with a torch will make them come out a lot easier. Stuff like that.
My only tip to anyone that's going to DIY. Read the manual. The entire manual at least once, if not twice, BEFORE you even put a wrench to the car. Usually the manufacturer's manual will give you little tips here and there. Also make sure you have every tool necessary. There is nothing worse than getting into the groove of things, then having to for an hour or two looking at your local hardware stores for the tool that you need.
If you don't understand anything in the manual, call them and ask, or just get someone else to install it for you. Since I work at a performance shop, the biggest nightmares are the ones where people bring me a car that's half done because they didn't know what was going on, and we had to fix it. Usually the labor is MORE because they had cut something they were not supposed to.
I do wish that those with the experience would capture their best lessons-learned, especially for gaps in the instructions manual.
For example, I hope that I have it saved at home, but I recall that someone in this forum said that "if you have an automatic, be sure to buy this tool" and mount it to something, but I don't recall now the exact details.
His point was that this necessary step was not listed in the instruction manual, specific to the automatic cars. I haven't purchased my supercharger yet, but I have downloaded the install manual and read it several times, just to make sure that I am capable on installing it myself.
I'm on step 65 and about 4 hrs into it, and I've never worked on engines to this degree. I've replace entire A/C systems and other crap, but nothing like this.
I definitely recommend having a pipe at least 3ft long to help break free the harmonic balancer bolt. That's assuming you don't have an air impact wrench to get the bolt off. I tried an electric impact rated at 345 ft/lbs, and it didn't budge it! I did end up taking the radiator out so I could fit the impact wrench in there, and that's not usually done in a normal install. I'd have had to do it anyways because my drill was too long to fit anyways. It's not a huge deal considering so much is out of the way anyway.
As for that extra step for the auto, I know it's related to getting that bolt off the pulley because you just end up spinning the motor. With my manual, I just put it in 6th gear and put the e-brake on. ;)
That's all I got so far.
Read thru the manual carefully. As you begin you will find several things that you can do out of order to help. For one attach the hoses to the back of the supercharger before installing it. Much easier than trying to get back there. The radiator has to come out to gain access for the drill and makes it easier to work on the pulley. Impact didn't break the nut loose. Use heat and a long cheater pipe. Fence post works well. Routing some hoses can be cleaned up too. Take your time don't rush and enjoy the process, it will be worth it. Removing the heater hoses from the firewall was the most difficult part of the entire install....
Here's my summary of the user posts. Credit for all of these ideas goes to the forum members from various threads, but most came from Mark-HD. If I missed anything, please let me know.
Supercharger installation tips:
- Take your time and enjoy the process
- Read through the manual carefully. As you begin you will find several things that you can do out of order to help.
- The harmonic balancer bolt appears to be a common issue:
- If your car is an automatic, you are going to need a Kent-Moore # J-42386-A tool to hold the flywheel in place when reinstalling the balancer bolt. Some may even find this tool necessary on a manual transmission car if they do not have an assistant to keep pressure on the brakes when torquing the bolt into place. The starter must be removed to install this tool into place. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO INSTALL THIS BOLT!!!
- The drilling of the harmonic balancer went easier than anticipated with the purchase of a right angle drill from Sears.
- Do not use a 12 point socket to remove balancer bolt, use a 6 point 24mm socket.
- Make sure you replace the balancer bolt with a new one. It is not designed to be used twice (replacement bolt is provided with the Magnuson kit).
- One trick to freeing the balancer bolt is to get a long breaker bar and hold the bar itself against the chassis. Then have an assistant turn the key to "start" for a second and let go (make sure spark is disabled so it doesn't start). This should break the bolt free.
- Impact wrench did not break the nut loose - had to use heat and a long cheater pipe. Fence post works well.
- To replace the bolt, use 37 ft/lbs and then 140 degrees with the angle meter.
- Water hoses have been described as the most challenging part of the install:
- The radiator has to come out to gain access for the drill and makes it easier to work on the pulley.
- As far as antifreeze catch goes, I would recommend going to Home Depot and purchasing a concrete mixing tub. They carry two different sizes but the smaller one measures about 18"x24"x6".
- I found some hose fastener removals to be the most difficult (the heater hoses especially, grab & twist with pliers is the trick). A 7 piece set of hose clamp removal tools saved the day.
- Attach the hoses to the back of the supercharger before installing it. It is much easier to install on these hoses on the bench than trying to access the rear of the supercharger after it is installed.
Relative to the instructions from the install manual, the routing of some hoses can be improved.
- I'd also recommend putting the front wheels on ramps if you are 6' tall or taller. This will allow you to place the catch basin under the car with ease and will stop you from having to bend over as much during the installation. If you are not comfortable installing the supercharger as we did above, you may roll the car back off of the ramps which will make it a little easier to set the supercharger on top. With that being said, once you get the car off of the ramps you're not going to be able to just crank it up and put it back on them since everything is torn apart.
Many of the above tips came from various contributors from the following thread, especially from member Mark-HD:
- Change the spark plugs to 1 heat cycle cooler. Most everyone runs the NGK TR6, gapped at about .034. They are part number 4177. You should NOT run factory plugs - too hot of a plug for boost.
- Use the highest octane gas available.
Has anyone else needed to use the copper shim for the oil pressure sensor? I will have to as my wiring clip falls in zone 3. :( Does the copper shim just go on the sensor as is, or does it have to go under those silver washers already present? I couldn't see how those washers came off, but then having that big copper shim in place between the valley cover and the sensor didn't seem right either. I couldn't tell from the pictures in the directions.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:05 AM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.