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Old 04-19-2010, 12:59 PM   #18

caverman's Avatar
Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,109
Originally Posted by Hotchkis View Post
We have worked on quite a few 5th Gens at our R&D center here in California, as well as on-site at Willow Springs during several track tests. With our Hotchkis springs and OE alignment capabilities, the vehicle can adjust camber from -0.4 to -2.6 for the front and -0.7 to -1.8 for the rear. No need to buy a kit or anything like that. For your situation where tire wear is important on a street driven car, we suggest the following alignment specs:

Camber: -0.75 to -1
Toe: 1/16 total toe in

Camber: -0.8
Toe: 3/16 total toe in

Hope this helps!

I have another question for you. One of the Pedders guys suggested the following about loosing the bolts, driving around slowly, and then re-tighten before alignment. It definately sounds logical....should I do this for the Hotchkis springs as well. Also, I'm assuming I won't need to cut the bumpstops?

The most important step in installing lowering coils is to time the OE rotational bushes to the new ride height. EVERY control arm bolt must be loose: front LCA, front radius arm, rear toe, trailing, inner lower... With the bolts loose drive the Camaro SLOWY around the lot and on to the alignment rack rails. With the weightbof the car on the wheels tighten all the bolts. The bushes are now timed to your new ride height. This means your second set of springs the bushes are now working with your new Peddes lowering coils.
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
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