When posting your results to this thread, please include the following information:
Type and make of dyno: (ex. dynojet model 248x, mustang, etc.)
ODO at the time of the dyno:
Gear used(3rd or 4th):
Correction used(STD or SAE):
Direct link to view this sheet online
Couple quick notes: It seems as though the powertrain loss for the manual is around 16% to possibly 17% while for the automatics, it is more in the 20% - 22% range. We have also noticed over time and through some testing that the V6s (more-so with headers it seems) tend to pick up false knock while on the dyno, thus pulling a few degrees more of timing versus what they are pulling under WOT on the street. If this is true, many of the results could possibly be making a bit more power than shown.
2010-2011 LLT STOCK DYNO
2010-2011 LLT MODDED DYNO
(sorted with HP numbers low to high)
2012 LFX MODDED/STOCK DYNO
EDIT: Nov 16th
If you guys see your dyno number on the list and do not see a link next to your name then this mean that I do not have your actual dyno sheet or I can't find it. If you want to further verify your run then please pm me with the location of your dyno sheet.
When you post your dyno numbers try to post as much information as you can. The more information everyone see for your particular dyno run the better we can understand the result
The standard information that should accompany with your dyno are as follows:
(Notes below originally written by member "bmorecam")
When we dyno our car there are 2 major component that most dyno use to calculate accurate result. They are the correction factor and temperature(weather station). There are over half of dozen corrections that can be used but here in USA we only use 2, the STD and SAE. Since there seem to be so much confusion surrounding this 2 calculations I will try to make this as simple as I can for you guys that want to know more about these very important factors that is part of every single dyno.
First, lets understand why these corrections was created in the first place. The correction standards were developed to discount the observed horsepower readings taken at different locations and weather conditions. It is obvious that an engine builder in Colorado could not produce as much horsepower as a shop at sea level. There is just less oxygen for the engine to burn at the higher altitude. What are less obvious are the other weather condition effects on the engine. So in order to compensate for this all advertised horsepower is "corrected" to several different industry standards.
"SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), USA. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.23 InHg of dry air and 77 F. This SAE standard requires a correction for friction torque.
STD is Another power correction standard determined by the SAE(society of automotive engineers). Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.92 InHg of dry air and 60 F. Friction torque is handled in the same way as in the SAE standard."
To sum everything up, both correction factors basically mimic a preset condition which was created by the society of automotive engineers. So... although the SAE correction factor is recognized today as the "standard" correction in the automotive industry, this does not mean reading a dyno number with STD cf is wrong. No matter which correction factor your dyno shop use, you should get an accurate comparison as long as you compare SAE vs SAE and STD vs STD. Never compare a dyno run with two different type of correction.
Originally Posted by partymn
I see some pretty good numbers from the V6 crowd, keep em coming.