Done by "The Tint Dude" - really, that's what his card says - This guy does quality work, uses top of the line materials and very reasonable. My son arranged the meet and work was performed at Lugnuts Automotive in Austin.
Chakita is the first car I've owned which I intended from day 1 to do some tweaking. Longest part of the install was getting the MAF connection loose: LOL, after 30 minutes of reading the instructions and trying to get it loose I figured out the instructions were missing a critical phrase of "pull the tab away from the connector to unlock, then depress to remove... " Oh well, had a nice chat with the local constabulary about midnight as he was making his rounds. In this photo you can see the engine cover I attempted to paint for the first time. Turned out ok, but it "just wasn't right".
MRT 2.0 install
: This is the pic of the axle back kit I pilfered from the Jannetty site. My son, Patrick took the car to work and had his lead wrench Chris put the kit on. Total time on the rack was about 40 minutes and I missed it - something about work getting in the way. Next time the car is at the shop will get a couple of pics.
Did a lot of reading and ended up on the Oznium site and ordered 10" Piranha light bars, wiring, LEDs and SMD LEDs. Spent a day looking for the simplest items like T-Taps in the correct gauge, a door jamb switch and the worst item to find was 3M Adhesion Promoter. Ended ordering enough of all the parts to start a small automotive wiring shop - think I have enough extra consumables to go into business. The Piranha bars have a plastic "C" clip to hold the bar and mount to a flat spot. You can barely see the clips in the pics of the bars. 3M double sided tape with 3M adhesion promoter and your in business.
I fused connections from a constant 12v source over the glove box ) 12 ga red wire in the bundle of 20 ga wires) and the interior light connection (Gray wire in the first plug of three I think over the accelerator) Ran each of the power lines to a SPDT switch (on/off/on) to control the lighting. Mounted the switch under the dash beneath the fuse panel in a flat area. Tip: Unibit in a 18v DeWalt is EXTREMELY handy for this. I used these power sources for the footwell LED bars.
Cup holders and glove box we done using the flat Surface Mount LEDs from Oznium. Hardest part was finding the brushed aluminum plate for the cupholders - finally found it on eBay. Used a door jamb switch for a 94 Chevy PU for the glove box switch. Again, I gained the knowledge and part numbers from Members previous work on the site.
Trunk lighting uses 3 Piranha bars - one left, center and right to provide a lot of light. The three bars produce about twice the amount of light of the stock trunk LED - but the light is where you need it. Removed the stock trunk, ran the LED bars and used T-Taps to tie into the power and ground for the stock trunk light.
I did all of the wiring and ran the wires inside 1/4" flexible conduit, soldered the connections and used bullet connectors to make disconnects in case I need to remove them later.
Ordered the kit from GMPartshouse - took about 30 minutes to install.
If interested, below are the links I used fir reference:
Cup holder lighting:
Glove Box lighting