02-11-2012, 10:19 PM
When is enough ever...
Drives: 2006 Silverado 2500HD CC/SB LBZ
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Residence: Chula Vista, CA Home: Billings, MT
Raptor Single Mode Shift Light
Quick DIY for the Raptor Shift Light. First off, let me say that the light is fairly compact and comes with enough wire to mount in most any location in the car and properly connect. What is lacking however, are clear directions and a signal amplifier necessary for proper function. This is more than just a little annoying. Bottom line, get the MSD signal amplifier. It makes the install much cleaner and is necessary for install on a Camaro. Without this amplifier the light will not work without it being programmed specifially for the Camaro by Raptor.
Tools you'll need:
- 10mm socket or nut driver (to disconnect battery ground)
- 7mm socket or nut driver (to remove vent ducting)
- right angle drill (to make hole in the firewall to route wires)
- step bit or 1/4" and 3/8" drill bit (to make hole in the firewall to route wires)
- Dremel and cutoff wheel (to trim bracket screw)
- grommet for firewall (to seal hole and protect wire routed thru)
- wire stripper/cutter/crimper (to make the connections)
- electrical tape (for connections and secure wires)
- fuse tap (for power to light and pickup)
- zip ties (to secure wires)
- 1/4" NF screw and nut (to secure the shift light bracket to vent casing)
- Disconnect the negative (ground) battery cable using 10mm nut driver.
- Remove fuse cover on driver's side of dash. Grip at the bottom and gently pull out working your way around the outside until it comes free. Note the lip of the cover actually goes under the weatherstrip when you put it back. (first photo)
- Using the 7mm nut driver, remove the screw securing the vent ducting in place.
- Pick a good spot to secure the bracket inside the duct that allows the light to aim toward the vent exit (facing the driver) and leaves enough room for the length of the light.
- Drill a small hole in the side of duct large enough to fit the 1/4" screw. From the inside of the vent, run the screw through the bracket, through the hole, and then secure on the external side with a locking nut. Trim the excess of the screw off with a cutoff wheel using a dremel. Set the ducting aside.
- Next, pick a good spot in the firewall to drill the hole for routing the wires. (I chose a spot directly below where the hood release cable went through the firewall.) Just peal the sound batting up from the bottom and you should have enough room to get the drill to the spot you're looking for.
- Drill the hole large enough to install the grommet and then route the wires through the hole. I believe I went about 3/8" inside diameter. (2nd photo)
- Install the grommet. Might help to put a little dish soap on one side to help slide it in place and then work it in with a small flat blade screw driver.
- Now check the setting on the shift light to ensure it is properly setup for your application and shift point. For Camaros, set all dip switches to off (one cylinder setting) and shift point to your desire (mine is set to 6200 rpm where my power starts to fall off).
- Once the grommet is in place, route the shift light wire down from the top of the fuse panel (close to the back of dash) to the hole. Push the wire through and pull most of the slack out. Try to leave enough slack to ensure you can easily remove the light from the bracket and make any changes.
- After routing the wire through the firewall, you'll need to decide exactly where you'll tap into power, ground, and coil trigger. Originally, I was following the instructions that came with the shift light so I worked the wires around the back of the firewall (behind the insulation), following the brake lines up the passenger side to the ABS block. To get to the X2 connection on the ECM. Using the MSD pickup however means you are not going to mess with tapping into the X2 connection. So what I am telling you is, if you can find a good ignition on (switchable power source) on the drivers side you won't have to route the wires all the way to the passenger side for no reason. If not, use a straightened coat hanger to fish the wire across behind the insulation.
- Ok, now that I confused you with the mess up above, let's get back to making the connections. Using the MSD pickup, secure the red wire on one of your coils (chose the back coil on the passenger side). Make sure it is assembled per directions for one cylinder operation (washers on top). (3rd photo)
- Next route the wires from the pickup as cleanly as possible to where the shift light wires end. Now you are going to tie those wires together and secure to the appropriate points.
- For the ground, tie into the black MSD and Raptor wires into a single looped end butt connector and crimp. Secure the connector to the chassis ground down low on the passenger side wheel well (about adjacent to the exhaust manifold). You can't miss it. (4th photo)
- For the switchable power (red wires) tie both into the fuse tap and pick an appropriate switched power feed in the fuse block. Important that you do NOT pick a constant on power supply, it must be a switchable supply that is only energized when the ignition is turned to the on position. (5th photo)
- Make the final connection. Using a butt connector, crimp the green wires of the pickup and shift light together. This completes all the electrical connections. Now before you button everything up, reattach the battery ground and get in the car.
- Shift light should still be hanging out of the side the fuse panel. Dial the rpm setting down to 2000 rpm. Put the key in the ignition and turn to on. The shift light should cycle thru a diagostic test blinking in various patterns. Once complete, start the car and let it settle into an idle. Blip the throttle up beyond 2000 rpms. Does the light come on above 2000? If yes then your install was successful. If no, then you have an issue and need to go back and double check connections.
- Assuming everything checked out ok, now you can shut the car down and begin buttoning everything up. First put the shift light into the back of the duct you removed and secure to the clamp. Double check the angle of the light so it will point toward the duct exit when reinstalled.
- Reinstall the duct with the shift light mounted inside. Line it up and tighten the 7mm screw down. Reinstall the fuse cover and move back under the hood.
- Under the hood, use zip ties and electrical tape to properly secure the wires you routed previously. Take your time and make it look as factory as possible. Check to make sure the wires won't be affected heat items, vibration, rotating parts, etc. Taking time here will avoid probelms down the road and impress others with a clean install. On mine most people would never even know this is installed. Between the shift light hidden in the vent duct and the wiring routed neatly, it will take someone familiar with the under hood of a Camaro and keen eye to spot the install. I did use some red zip ties on the install but that helps me remember the routing of aftermarket items further down the road. (6th photo)
Total install time is a couple hours taking your time to properly route and connect the wiring while making sure everything looks clean. Sorry the photos are all at the end. Haven't figured out how to put them in certain spots in the text. Hope it helps. Now it's time to
* If you see any problems with the DIY, Please let me know and I'll make the changes. This is my first DIY so bound to be some issues. Thanks.
The Toy: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS, LS3, Power by Vengeance Racing...
"I don't make things difficult. That's the way they get, all by themselves." Riggs
The Workhorse: 2006
Silverado CCSB, EFI Live, MBRP/Diamond Eye 4" turbo back, Edge Insight CTS