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Old 05-21-2012, 04:23 PM   #280
Blue70SS

 
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Drives: 2010 LS3Camaro2SSRS IOM in/out
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 2,027
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro21 View Post
After a few issues with my rear diff noise and lack of traction, this is what I have coming !!

Qty. 2 - Weld RTS Wheel, Aluminum, Polished, 17 in. x 10 in., 5 x 120mm Bolt Circle, 7.200 in. Backspace

Qty. 2 - Weld RTS Wheel, Aluminum, Polished, 17 in. x 5 in., 5 x 120mm Bolt Circle, 2.200 in. Backspace

Qty. 2 - Hoosier 18157 Drag Slick, 28.00 x 10.00-17, Bias-Ply, Solid White Letters, D06 Compound

Qty. 2 - M&H Racemaster Front Runner, 28.00 x 4.50-17, Bias-Ply, Blackwall

Qty. 1 - GForce Race Harness, Complete, Camlock

Qty. 1 - Driveshaft Shop Manual DSS 9'' Independent Rear Conversion Kit w/ 3.70 Gears

Qty. 1 - Pair of BMR TCA029 - Lower Control Arms, Rear, Adjustable, Polyurethane Bushings

Qty. 1 - RJS Driving Suit, One-Piece, Single Layer, Proban, Black with White Stripe

I can't wait to get them so I can install and go RACING !!
So how are those BMR lower control arms working out for clearance with the Weld rims on hard launches? Mine don't hit anymore, but took a torch to the impact spot and hammered in, as well as grinding - plus jacked rear up as far as possible with Pfadt coilovers. Also I run 1/4" spacers and modified wheel studs. Beefy LCA's would be nice if wheel clearance issues vanished.

BTW, SSE 4 2SS sent me a PM that you were inquiring about the Street Slayer Triple Carbon he has. I love it so far - I'm waiting for 500 street miles before WOT high RPM shifts. Installed it last Friday and so far super happy. It engages much higher, so full disengagement is definitely not a problem. Pedal pressure is slightly more than stock - I probably feel my LPE return spring more, which is still smart to have. Pedal pressure on my ZR1 CX max was alot more, which didn't bother me at all, but shows this clutch should be alot easier on the OEM clutch hydraulics. I've only drove it 120 highway miles and about 60 city traffic mile so far. It's a learning experience after driving the ZR1 that began engagement about 1" off the floor with full engagement at about 4". This was my 2nd ZR1 clutch and 1st one cost me rebuilding the RPM level 6 tranny - 2nd one was about to do the same. ZR1 clutch came out looking great still. Triple Carbon is streetable, but I do need to pay attention and I'm sure it will become 2nd nature. Anything after 1st gear is totally a non issue and feels great. Taking off on the street I find it best to keep RPM closer to 1k and carefully take off - 2k and not paying attention at all can result in a quick jump. This looks like the ticket for utilizing OEM hydrolics, not killing my syncros, and obviously holding the power. Rebuilds will be less than a new ZR1 clutch/flywheel combo. Wish I did this before - could have bought 2 and still saved money and aggravation. I'll report more when taken to the track after break in.

I would have sent a PM, but figured good info for others.
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LPE 650+,IOM Pearl White Rallys
743 RWHP 681 TQ @91,TVS2300 10/14 OD 2.75/NW 102mm,RDS
NLP spoiler/GM splitter/Torq HE-fans/oil-tranny coolers/IC1000cc
boosted LPE Twin Pump,GT9,Coil Covers,Mats,Pedals/ADM Gauges,Race Scoop/Trunions
DDS CVs,Carbon F DS/RPM L6/LPE 9.5 3.73/Pedders HD bushes,align kit
RB 2-piece rotors,S/S Lines,Hawk HPE Pads/Forgeline SP3P/Weld RTS
Ceramic ARH 2" LT/3" X-pipe,Corsa Touring/BMR TA,Toe,LCA,DS Loop
StreetSlayer BC3/MTI Shifter-Trans mt/Hotchkis CB/Monster CC/SJM LineLock
PFADT Coil Overs,Sways,Links,Mounts,SF Bushes,Camber Kit

LPE Brotherhood
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