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Old 03-28-2013, 10:33 PM   #3
caverman


 
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Drives: '69 SS Convertible
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,066
This is the QA1 with Anti-seize on it. Make sure to put it on all the threads. You can wipe off the excess later once you get the height set to where you want.

I also have a picture of the way the install. The smaller end sits on the spring perch. The thin metal washer goes in between the spring perch and the locking nut.

The Thrust bearing will come with two thin metal washers per side plus the Thrust bearing. The metal washers go on top and bottom with the Thrust bearing in between. I put some bearing grease on the Thrust bearing to help keep the rollers in place. As you can see from the picture they fall out pretty easy. One of my Thrust bearings came with all of the little rollers out and I had a heck of a time getting them all back in. I also recommend not opening the bag until the very last minute and when you do so make sure you do it over a bucket to catch the little rollers if they come flying out.

Take a look at this picture to get an idea of basically how to install them. With the shock shaft pulled all the way out and the spring perch down to the very end youíll have the easiest install. I initially tried to set the spring perch about 1/3 of the way up but that also takes away about 1/3 of your mounting shaft. Without the Thrust bearings youíll be real tempted to do this because the spring perch is so hard to adjust up without them. However, with the Thrust bearing and Anti-seize itís really pretty easy to make the adjustments.

Even though I was using a lift, I brought the car all the way down so that I could use a jack to push the lower control arm up. I had a friend work the jack while I used a light and a pry bar (didnít want my fingers in there) to help maneuver the shock shaft through the frame hole. Once there is enough threads showing through then put the rubber bushing on and then the nut. Then hit it with an air wrench from the engine bay to get it pulled up.

Once thatís done you can continue to use the jack to help get the upper and lower ball joints in place. Make sure to watch your rubber boot over your ball joint before tightening up the crown nut. Mine came out of place and I had to take the nut back off, back out he ball joint again (using a shop hammer) and redo it again. Funny because Camaro Performers magazine just did an article doing tubular arm install on a í68 and I was in the picture where they messed up the boot and it was off as well. Iím sure they figured it out once they went to grease them.

The lower bolts that come with the QA1 are larger than stock. This means you will either use the stock small bolts or youíll have to drill out your A-arms for the larger bolts. I chose to drill out my holes and use the larger bolts.
Also, I put the bolts in the lower shock mounts to help hold the shock in place but I didnít put the nuts on until the end. That allowed me a little play to maneuver the shaft up through the frame when we were jacking it up.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
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