Originally Posted by Blue70SS
Here you go Merc... keep in mind my engagement being at 50%
might not be right for your clutch.
... I have the RPS/Hendrix Street Slayer Billet Triple Carbon clutch
that engages really high, but never has a disengagement problem
on high RPM shifts.
Also I maxed out the hysteresis to 4.5 to keep from any chance of
on/off problems if close to the engagement point..... for the same
reasons of the triple carbon clutch.
If anyone else needs any pointers on installing the Lingenfelter CTAP-001 Clutch/Throttle Position sensor, I will be glad to give pointers. Merc got the version with the longer Purple wire so any disconnecting and moving the actual adjustable unit would be easier..... something I mentioned to LPE while Beta Testing the unit. The biggest thing to help is Do Not remove the clutch switch to get the connector off..... looks like a royal PITA. I removed the same switch off the brake switch and examined how the connector came off and too a lot of pictures with my camera of the positioning of the current clutch switch harness using mirrors. Seem to remember bending a small screwdriver to make a good harness clip removal tool. Pulled the lower left footwell paneling off and fuse panel cover. Put drivers seat back as far as possible (didn't remove) and steering wheel as high as it could go. Left arm was a tight squeeze to get my hand touching the connector, and right arm under the dash with the home made removal tool was like playing a game of twister. Then had a printed out picture of the position of the connector to my side to reverence so I could interpret what I was feeling. Presto.... got it off. Installing the new one that goes between the OEM harness and the existing clutch switch is much easier than the removal. I also added just a tad of light bulb grease to the connection to make it slide on easier. But I would definitely stay away from removing the existing switch to do it. I have fairly big hands and was able to do it. Or.... have a friend or mechanic with smaller hand help you out. Switch works great! What I really like is being able to adjust at what point in the clutch pedal travel the activation occurs since all clutches have different engagement points... plus may need adjustment later as clutch wears and the engagement point starts to changes. Also, I maxed out the hysteresis to 4.5 to keep from any chance of on/off problems if close to the engagement point in the clutch pedal travel..... since I have the triple carbon clutch and Really engages! (may play around with the adjustment later for fine tuning) For those that don't know, the "hysteresis" that Jason Haines from Lingenfelter built in, is so you have a "window" for the activation point - without this feature, if you have the clutch pedal at the activation point and moved slightly (like during hard launches)..... the activation could be turning on/off instead of staying activated. His install instructions explain everything really good.
LPE 650+,IOM Pearl White Rallys
839 RWHP 864 TQ 91oct,TVS2300 10/14 OD 2.75/NW 102mm,RDS/N20/LPE NCC
NLP spoiler/GM splitter/Torq HE-fans/oil coolers/IC1000cc
boosted LPE Twin Pump,GT9,Coil Covers,Mats,Pedals/ADM Gauges,Race Scoop/Trunions
DDS CVs,Carbon F DS/RPM L6/LPE 9.5 3.73/Pedders HD bushes,align kit
RB 2-piece rotors,S/S Lines,Hawk HPE Pads/Forgeline SP3P/Weld RTS
Ceramic ARH 2" LT/3" X-pipe,Corsa Touring/BMR TA,Toe,LCA,DS Loop
StreetSlayer BC3/MTI Shifter-Trans mt/Hotchkis CB/Monster CC/SJM LineLock
PFADT Coil Overs,Sways,Links,Mounts,SF Bushes,Camber Kit