Originally Posted by Klepton
I finally got around to completing this mod. However, it was a pain in the ass! I had such a hard time taking the clamp off the stock brake/clutch line on the firewall side because I could not reach in there with my right hand and my injured left shoulder doesn't have its complete range of motion back to allow me to do it with my left hand. Therefore, I ended up bending the bracket provided with this kit on the clutch reservoir so that it was close enough to attach the stock brake/clutch line to it. Another problem I had was with the small clamp that is provided with the plug in this kit. It was way too small and I couldn't make it go over the tip of the stock brake/clutch reservoir nipple. I ended up having to purchase a bigger clamp from Auto Zone. It was slightly bigger than it needed to be, but small enough to prevent the plug from coming out.
This allows the usage of the stock brake/clutch line, which is what I wanted all along. Therefore, you don't have to go through the hassle of replacing the stock line!
How easy was it to bend the bracket and what did you use? Just a couple pairs of pliers or did you need a vice? This sounds like the approach I would take. I tried reaching for that firewall end clamp and it does not look like something I'd want to pull a muscle dealing with.
2010 2SS/RS M6 "Black Ace" - Delivered 6/4/2009
Mods: Forged LS3 (9.8:1 CR), Maggie TVS 2300 SC with OD rear pulley, Custom Comp cam (223/244, .610/.596, 114 LSA), Monster LT1-SC twin-disk clutch, ZL1 drivetrain conversion w/ DSS 1000-HP axles & 1-pc. driveshaft, CAI Inc. intake w/ ADM scoop, XS Power full exhaust (1 7/8" LT headers with 3" off-road pipes), VMAX CNC-ported TB, LSR adjustable sway bars, LPE rear end-links, BMR 1" drop, BMR polyurethane bushings; UMI trailing arms & toe rods. 580 rwhp/566 rwtq (Mustang Dyno, 7.5psi, maxed-out injectors). Built & tuned by Lashway Motorsports.