Yes, everyone, please stay on-topic.
I realize that threads like these tend to inevitably lead to discussion of what the cause of the intake coking is, and the validity and effectiveness of the available solutions or preventions.
I don't mind such discussions, but we're veering into the territory of accusations of posting intentionally misleading information in an effort to discredit a business competitor.
That kind of crap has no place in this thread, and will be reported.
For those of you reading this and other similar threads, as you read the information posted by some very knowledgeable folks here, take some of what's said with a grain of salt and use your judgement in assessing their positions and perspectives on the topic.
That said, personally, I believe there's some validity in both theorized causes being discussed here: 1) PCV-related vapors, and 2) reversion (which is the term for combustion chamber by-products fouling the not-quite-completely closed intake valves).
I think both contribute. To what extent, I don't know, and won't try to argue with those that claim they do.
But I do know that there's really only one of the two that I can do anything about.
Back to the topic at hand, I intend to Seafoam my engine within the next couple of days. Not sure how soon after I'll have time to tear down the intake again and check for the effectiveness of the Seafoam treatment. I need to do it on a day where I have time to manually clean the valves, if they still require it, because I don't know when I'll have time to tear it down for a third time. I'd like to kill two birds with one tear down.
All bleeding stops eventually
-- 2012 2LT Auto w/sunroof
-- My journal thread
Roto-Fab Intake & W/W Relocate Kit -- ADM Race Scoop -- Dynomax VT Axle-Back Exhaust -- Vitesse Throttle Controller
RX Catch Can -- Drake Bowtie Delete -- JacFab Radio Face Cover -- LED Fog Lights -- LED Dome/Trunk/Plate Lights
Wishlist: VMax Ported TB -- Dash ABL -- Footwell/Cupholder/Door Pull/Homelink Button Lighting