Originally Posted by AngelSpeedFreak
Hope you get it figured out soon... Something definitely not right with that HP number
Definitely needs the thermal spacer and larger TB for more breathing! I'm also betting you (Jeremy/2SS45th) need the extra LPE idler pully. Get the front belt as tight as possible..... hold the tensioner full tilt and have a 2nd person slide the idler pully below the front jackshaft as tight as possible. Make sure the bolt is nice and tight..... slid mine right over 1st time I adjusted just before racing and thought it was tight enough (marked with tape to verify it wasn't sliding over). You can also get the larger idler pully for more belt wrap. Don't forget to retighten after belt is broken in too.... I was slipping in the rear, but hadn't retightened after being new (was a "oh duh" moment). But you went rear cog didn't you? I went 14 rib with the extra idler tensioner for the rear.
I'm doing everything possible to get rid of heat (other than hood) to lower IATs. Not using the rear hood seal, huge engine oil cooler, remote tranny cooler, 2" ceramic coated headers and mids, ported lower Maggie plenum (also ceramic coated), 1/2" thermal spacer system, thermal sleeves on SC coolant hoses around engine, 1 gal LPE SC coolant tank, Torq dual pass HE with dual fans, wrapped exhaust around rear diff, race CAI scoop, insulated rotofab CAI enclosure, water wetter & low coolant percent, higher volume SC coolant pump.
LPE 650+,IOM Pearl White Rallys
743 RWHP 681 TQ @91,TVS2300 10/14 OD 2.75/NW 102mm,RDS
NLP spoiler/GM splitter/Torq HE-fans/oil-tranny coolers/IC1000cc
boosted LPE Twin Pump,GT9,Coil Covers,Mats,Pedals/ADM Gauges,Race Scoop/Trunions
DDS CVs,Carbon F DS/RPM L6/LPE 9.5 3.73/Pedders HD bushes,align kit
RB 2-piece rotors,S/S Lines,Hawk HPE Pads/Forgeline SP3P/Weld RTS
Ceramic ARH 2" LT/3" X-pipe,Corsa Touring/BMR TA,Toe,LCA,DS Loop
StreetSlayer BC3/MTI Shifter-Trans mt/Hotchkis CB/Monster CC/SJM LineLock
PFADT Coil Overs,Sways,Links,Mounts,SF Bushes,Camber Kit