I recently installed the Pedders 1LE Permagrin Package on my 2013 1LE Camaro. Here is a review on the performance of the kit, and the installation:
This package includes 3 parts:
EP6577 Steel Jacketed Urethane Raduis Bushes
EP1201HD R Sub-Frame Bush perform like solid mounts w/ protecting sub-frame integrity
1LE Rear 32 MM Direct Replacement Rear Sway Bar
Cost as a package: $999.99
Performance on track:
The 1LE Camaro, as it comes from the factory, is a phenomenal track-day machine, but for those of us who need that little bit extra that Chevy was afraid to give us for the daily driver, THIS IS IT! Turn-in is incredible, it's instant. The slight amount of understeer still left in the 1LE is GONE. Now when you put the car into a slide, all 4 wheels drift evenly, and you can adjust the angle of your slide effortlessly. The car stays planted until you want it to let loose, never before. It rotates like a dream, tracking is excellent, and the best part is it's predictability. You know exactly where the car is going and how it will react to every slight input. Steering with the throttle is not the least bit unnerving after installing this kit.
For those of you worried about street performance and road noise, yes there is a minor increase in suspension noise and differential whine from the subframe. That being said, if you were to drive a stock 1LE back to back with a pedderised one, I doubt you would notice the difference in noise, but you certainly would notice a difference in performance.
I know some of you comment that this kit is expensive considering the components it contains. I will tell you it's worth every penny. If you don't believe me, come to a track day near me, and you can see for yourself.
I know some of you have been waiting for my on-track review for a while now, and I'd just like to talk a little about why that is, so no one makes the same mistake I did. I had the car aligned by a local alignment shop after installing this kit because they were the only people I could get to do this on a short time frame. The alignment was absolutely HORRIBLE; the specs were so far out from what they said they were that the car was almost undriveable. I'm talking about 1 degree of camber on one side, 2.5 on the other. .5 degrees of toe on one side and 0 on the other. Basically I was dragging the tires around the track. Unfortunately, I assumed this was due to the new parts and gave Pete an earful (SORRY!). Once I got the car re-aligned by a race specialty shop, Bulldog Motorsports in Clifton, NJ, it was absolutely perfect.
Total installation time: 6 hrs (2 friends and myself on our backs, using jack stands in 100 degree weather... Case of beer)
Just a note: If you don't have an impact wrench, torque wrench, or decent mechanical ability, bring this somewhere to have it installed.
By far the most annoying part of this installation was removing the front radius arms. It takes a good solid metal dead blow hammer. One side was particularly stubborned and required an air hammer. Don't use a pickle fork because you will break the boot on the ball joint. I also mushroomed 1 of the ball joint ends and had to hacksaw 1/4" off to get the nut off. There is about 1/2" before the threads, so it's fine. I then brought the arms to a shop near my house and for 40 bucks, they pressed in the 2 bushings. It took them about 30 minutes. I then put the arms back on the car and tightened the nuts until the ball joint was seated properly.
I thought this would be the most difficult part, but it was cake. You need to make the pedders tool from a 4" PVC sleeve, thrraded rod, and some plumbing parts. There are pictures of it on Pedders website. If you talk to Pete from Pedders he'll explain how it works. First you support the rear differential with a floor jack and remove the 4 subframe bolts. Then lower the jack so the rear subframe drops down. I then had to remove the 2 lower strut mounts in order to drop it a few more inches. I put the Pedders tool on the bushing and tightened it with an impact gun until it got pretty tight, then heated the subframe with a propane torch. The bushing popped and then I tightened the tool until the bushing was pressed out. Repeat this process for the other 3 bushings, then pop in the new bushings and carefully re-align the rear subframe and tighten the bolts.
This is as easy as it looks. Remove the nuts from the top of the end links, remove the for bolts holding the shackles, and pull the bar out the side. You'll have to twist and turn it on the way out, but it'll come. Remove the shackles from the OEM bar by putting 1 end in a vise and twisting the bar. Pop the new bushings on the new bar, and the shackles on the bushings, slide it in and tighten everything.
It is very important that ALL of these suspension parts be torqued properly. Pedders will give you the specs if you ask.
Obviously you need to get the car aligned properly as well, or you won't get the full benefit of this package. Once again, Pedders will give you their specs.
I can't thank Pete from Pedders enough for his support with installation and answering a few dumb questions along the way.