Originally Posted by The_Blur
This thread is packed with good advice for every Camaro owner considering a turbo. Listen to TCAT.
. Much appreciated my friend.
Originally Posted by Lio Martinez
How can I contact Ted? Where is his shop?
Or how does he work on the tunes? Meaning does he email them?
Or can anyone recommend me any good tuners near Oxnard CA?
Ted is Ted Jannetty from Jannetty Racing located in Connecticut. He can be contacted via Camaro5 or through phone and email written in the link below:
Ted can tune remotely if necessary. He will recommend you purchase a specific SCT Handheld tuner to datalog your driving and various accelerations through the gears. You'll send him the information that the data logging program provides, or rent a dyno for the day and data log on while running on that according to Teds instructions. He will study the data you send and make appropriate corrections, then email you the updated tune, and you'll upload it to the handheld programmer via OBDII port and woolah.
There are also some reputable local tuners available, but we'll help you via PM with that.
Originally Posted by Lio Martinez
Jordan 572 and TCat will my stock waste gate springs be able to handle 7psi?
And at what psi do I need to consider internal imagine work? Like piston rings etc!!!
It's not that the wastegate springs handle a certain amount of boost, it's the fact that thw wastegate is determining the boost level you'll achieve. I am betting your kit came with 5 pound waste gate springs, so if memory serves well, Turbonetics sells a 7 pound spring as the next increase, and a 9 pound spring following that. I would say to go with a 7 pound wastegate spring, custom tune, and call it a day. Chances are, with the stock Turbo kits injectors and a 9 pound wastegate spring and midpipes, I think you'll go beyond the duty cycle of your injectors, which is just plain stupid. They won't be able to handle the demand. That brings me to the next point, do you have an upgraded fuel pump? If I were you, I wouldn't increase the wastegate spring pressure more than it's at currently until you get a fuel pump that cab deliver on the level you desire. Otherwise, you are playing with fire man. You don't want to be "that" guy that blows the crap out of his new engine and then tries to figure out how to fund a very expensive rebuild. So, if you musttttt, get your midpipes on, and retune it the way it is. Otherwise, if you want higher boost levels, purchase a reputable higher demand fuel pump and injectors, get the midpipes on then retune.
Trust me, it's VERY easy to get caught up in the dyno numbers game and always wanting more power. You can also tell that with more power means more money because the need for parts that support the new power, whether that be fuel system related, drivetrain, engine, or suspension gets more prevalent. There has to be a time where you just drive the car, and say "Damn, this car is fun and fast".
Also, it's not just about boost pressure but also total power made that leaves you at greater risk for engine issues, and the tune has a ton to do with that too not just boost. Some people are safe at 7psi and others last at 10+, but it varies greatly because so many factors are at play. Nothing says you won't damage the stock engine internals as you are now, but on average, people do very well at the 7-8psi range, and above that it's possible you'll be fine and possibly not. You have to play it somewhat safe and do what you feel is comfortable. Ideally, you'd want forged internals before going the forced induction route but it's a large expense that most people don't want to pay. However, it's a nice safety cushion once boost is introduced. One thing is relatively stable though, the more power you make without proper supporting mods, the more at risk your engine will be.