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Old 01-18-2017, 10:02 AM   #118
gringo
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Drives: Camaro V6
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: U.S.
Posts: 1,722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elite Engineering View Post
No dancing around any of it. First, there is no way to stop 100% of the coking partially due to the variable valve events GM uses to emulate the EGR valves function as these are no longer used. This opens the intake valves slightly after combustion so some of the burnt gasses back-fill into the area behind the intake valves. Then there is always a small amount of oil that enters the combustion chamber past the piston rings (very slight, but still some) and get past the valve seals as this lubricates the guides.


Now, the pictures are out there, you just have to look....but there are not a ton as very few actually install a proper effective system when brand new, and coking begins in the first few hundred miles and once there is a base, the amount of build-up increases at a more rapid rate. There are tons of other benefits to running one as we have covered in other threads, but for the intake coking alone we will address this.


Here of course is an example of the before and after cleaning done manually (only safe way):





This is a brand new LGX engine with only a few thousand miles and GM's latest changes...so still an issue:





This is a LLT with 28k miles on it, and the dealer Dexos syn blend oil ....NOT a full synthetic that builds far less:





Compared to a LFX (sorry don;t have same LLT with that low of miles to show, but no changes were made in the LLT and LFX PCV systems until 2014) with 32k miles that installed a E2 when only a few thousand miles were on it:





So, to give what your asking, we would have to have 2 identical brand new vehicles, run exactly the same to seat rings when new, and then run exact same oil and drive exact same way to show...and then there are still variables that come into play (how long the engine idled at stop lights, how many miles interstate, etc.) that are beyond control. But the impact is still dramatic.


Hop this helps!
Since I'm ready to pull the trigger on the $80 FI upgrade kit, how do you add the extra port and check valve with vacuum hose to the original 2 exit port E2 N/A catch can?

I want to do this on mine since this seems to be the most effective solution to reducing coking of the valves in a direct injection application.
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