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Orange Krate · 06-07-2013, 01:22 AM

This is a DIY for my new custom "ORANGE KRATE" L.E.D. Trunk Lid Panel that was designed and built by Scott at: http://www.jarheadbobandmax.com. You can also find them on FACEBOOK!

Disclaimer: I am a novice mechanic who enjoys working on my car when it is within my skill range. Know your limits!

SAFETY FIRST!
This install requires some basic automotive electrical wiring. If you have not done wiring before or have no knowledge of how DC circuits work then this project may not be for you. It is recommended that you disconnect or isolate the battery while you work on the electrical wiring in order to avoid a fire. It is also recommended that you install a proper inline fuse (photo below) close to the battery power source so that you do not burn a long run of wire should there be a short.

When drilling the hole for the button/switch wear safety glasses in order to protect eyes from metal debris.

-----------------------------------

THE PACKAGE/CONTENTS:
I received the package from Jarheadbobandmax.com and eagerly opened it up. Contents included the sign, a plastic packet with "Christmas Tree" style fasteners, a LED switch, and simple instructions. Included are business cards and a small 8.5x11 card stock sign that may be laminated (I am putting it in my scrapbook!)

**There is a small removable jarheadbobandmax.com badge on the sign which I opt to leave on for promoting our Veteran sign maker!

PLANNING & PREPARATION:

Identify all the parts/pieces.
Identify the tools and any additional supplies needed.
Identify a good spot to install the button/switch for the sign.
Identify the routing for the wiring and where you will tap into power and ground.
Identify the Christmas Tree fasteners that will be removed from existing trunk lid cover. (Sign is an overlay on existing cover)

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES (Photos below)

Small and medium slotted screwdrivers
A trim fastener removal tool
Small electrical wire stripper and crimper
Small electronic pliers (to hold Christmas Tree fasteners)
Caliper to measure switch
Fine rat tail file
4 amp fuse and inline fuse holder
3 rolls of 18 gauge wire (I used solid)
3/4 inch metal hole cutter (Bought at "Do it Center")
Round grinding ball to smooth hole to final dimension
Wire ties various sizes (black)
Shrink tubing
Packet of quick-crimp disconnects
Cigarette lighter for shrink tubing (Heat gun if you have it!)

INSTALLATION

PREPARING SIGN
Install the Christmas Tree fasteners on the sign. A specific photo instruction sheet comes with the sign. There are 4 Christmas Tree fasteners to install and 4 to remove in the trunk. To install you will need pliers to press the large flat rounded ends so they can fit in the sign hole. Once it is inserted into the hole GENTLY push the base of the fastener with a small screwdriver until the whole faster base goes into the hole and expands out. It should stay in place and be tight but you can rotate it if needed. DON'T SMASH THE RIDGES on the fastener or it won't stay retained in the trunk holes and the sign will wobble or come loose. BE GENTLE! As the instructions state... TWIST PIN TO BE SURE OF PROPER PLACEMENT. I have included photos of how mine looked as I installed the fasteners.

EXISTING TRUNK LID
Remove the four fasteners indicated in the photo. Save them for later use if emergency arises.

SIGN PLACEMENT
Install the new sign into place over the existing trunk lid by pushing the four fasteners into the empty holes. This can be tricky because the sign is precise! You may require a second set of hands to help out. Go slow and be methodical as you can crush those fasteners if they are in a bind.

TRUNK AREA
Remove the trunk mat and then remove the trunk well battery cover, the rear plastic panel must also be removed to expose the area the wires will be hidden in. The passenger side rear wheel well covering must also be unbuttoned and pushed forward GENTLY toward the back seat so you can gain access to the wiring route.

SWITCH
I knew it would be almost impossible to climb into the trunk and see the wiring so I prepared the switch with a pre-installed wire pigtail that would be pulled through the body panel below the window sheet metal channel and then hidden as the wiring was retracted to reach the sign connections. There is a photo of the wiring diagram and my notes on it. Be sure to check that your electrical connections all work before you push the button in! It is a bear to get out once in place. I used shrink wrap over the connectors to protect them and add a bit more strength so they don't pull off the switch poles.

You can see the temporary wiring for my test and also see the inline 4 amp fuse connector at the battery end in the photo below.

I identified the location of where I wanted the LED switch but didn't know how hard it would be to drill the hole. The metal hole cutter I bought worked great. Just be slow, gentle and real careful so you don't push up through the glass panel! That would be incredibly ugly (and costly).

SAFETY: Disconnect the battery and also removed the 4 amp fuse from the inline fuse holder.

Lay out the new wire along existing wiring routes so that the new wires can be wire tied neatly.

Pull the wires across the bottom of the trunk, up towards the tail light wiring loom and then up and through the existing top metal channel area in the approximation to passenger side rear speaker deck. Leave enough wire so that a small section could be wound up and hidden so that in case I had to pull the switch out I would have extra wire to work with.

I already had an existing ground connection for my LED tail lights so the ground source was close by. You may have to drill a small hole and use a self-tapping sheet metal screw for ground or run an extra wire back to the battery (-) terminal. A ground is a ground as long as it is clean!

Once the test wiring was completed and everything worked pull the wires into place. Solder the connections between the switch pigtail and the wiring loom and shrink tube them (Don't forget to put the shrink tube on before you solder and close the wire ends).

Next connect the battery and insert 4 amp fuse in fuse connector. Turn on switch and there should be a pretty LED sign and a red light on the LED Switch.

If everything looks good, then wire tie all the wires neatly and button up the trunk area of the car in reverse order of how you took everything out. Clean up your mess, put tools away and go show that beauty off!

Special thanks again to Scott Miller at http://www.jarheadbobandmax.com.

06-07-2013, 01:22 AM	#618
Orange Krate Not just any car! Drives: Orange Krate DOB - 11/22/2010 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Simi Valley, CA Posts: 1,848	DIY: Installation of Custom LED Trunk Lid Panel This is a DIY for my new custom "ORANGE KRATE" L.E.D. Trunk Lid Panel that was designed and built by Scott at: http://www.jarheadbobandmax.com. You can also find them on FACEBOOK! Disclaimer: I am a novice mechanic who enjoys working on my car when it is within my skill range. Know your limits! SAFETY FIRST! This install requires some basic automotive electrical wiring. If you have not done wiring before or have no knowledge of how DC circuits work then this project may not be for you. It is recommended that you disconnect or isolate the battery while you work on the electrical wiring in order to avoid a fire. It is also recommended that you install a proper inline fuse (photo below) close to the battery power source so that you do not burn a long run of wire should there be a short. When drilling the hole for the button/switch wear safety glasses in order to protect eyes from metal debris. ----------------------------------- THE PACKAGE/CONTENTS: I received the package from Jarheadbobandmax.com and eagerly opened it up. Contents included the sign, a plastic packet with "Christmas Tree" style fasteners, a LED switch, and simple instructions. Included are business cards and a small 8.5x11 card stock sign that may be laminated (I am putting it in my scrapbook!) There is a small removable jarheadbobandmax.com badge on the sign which I opt to leave on for promoting our Veteran sign maker! PLANNING & PREPARATION: Identify all the parts/pieces. Identify the tools and any additional supplies needed. Identify a good spot to install the button/switch for the sign. Identify the routing for the wiring and where you will tap into power and ground. Identify the Christmas Tree fasteners that will be removed from existing trunk lid cover. (Sign is an overlay on existing cover) TOOLS AND SUPPLIES (Photos below) Small and medium slotted screwdrivers A trim fastener removal tool Small electrical wire stripper and crimper Small electronic pliers (to hold Christmas Tree fasteners) Caliper to measure switch Fine rat tail file 4 amp fuse and inline fuse holder 3 rolls of 18 gauge wire (I used solid) 3/4 inch metal hole cutter (Bought at "Do it Center") Round grinding ball to smooth hole to final dimension Wire ties various sizes (black) Shrink tubing Packet of quick-crimp disconnects Cigarette lighter for shrink tubing (Heat gun if you have it!) INSTALLATION PREPARING SIGN Install the Christmas Tree fasteners on the sign. A specific photo instruction sheet comes with the sign. There are 4 Christmas Tree fasteners to install and 4 to remove in the trunk. To install you will need pliers to press the large flat rounded ends so they can fit in the sign hole. Once it is inserted into the hole GENTLY push the base of the fastener with a small screwdriver until the whole faster base goes into the hole and expands out. It should stay in place and be tight but you can rotate it if needed. DON'T SMASH THE RIDGES on the fastener or it won't stay retained in the trunk holes and the sign will wobble or come loose. BE GENTLE! As the instructions state... TWIST PIN TO BE SURE OF PROPER PLACEMENT. I have included photos of how mine looked as I installed the fasteners. EXISTING TRUNK LID Remove the four fasteners indicated in the photo. Save them for later use if emergency arises. SIGN PLACEMENT Install the new sign into place over the existing trunk lid by pushing the four fasteners into the empty holes. This can be tricky because the sign is precise! You may require a second set of hands to help out. Go slow and be methodical as you can crush those fasteners if they are in a bind. TRUNK AREA Remove the trunk mat and then remove the trunk well battery cover, the rear plastic panel must also be removed to expose the area the wires will be hidden in. The passenger side rear wheel well covering must also be unbuttoned and pushed forward GENTLY toward the back seat so you can gain access to the wiring route. SWITCH I knew it would be almost impossible to climb into the trunk and see the wiring so I prepared the switch with a pre-installed wire pigtail that would be pulled through the body panel below the window sheet metal channel and then hidden as the wiring was retracted to reach the sign connections. There is a photo of the wiring diagram and my notes on it. Be sure to check that your electrical connections all work before you push the button in! It is a bear to get out once in place. I used shrink wrap over the connectors to protect them and add a bit more strength so they don't pull off the switch poles. You can see the temporary wiring for my test and also see the inline 4 amp fuse connector at the battery end in the photo below. I identified the location of where I wanted the LED switch but didn't know how hard it would be to drill the hole. The metal hole cutter I bought worked great. Just be slow, gentle and real careful so you don't push up through the glass panel! That would be incredibly ugly (and costly). SAFETY:** Disconnect the battery and also removed the 4 amp fuse from the inline fuse holder. Lay out the new wire along existing wiring routes so that the new wires can be wire tied neatly. Pull the wires across the bottom of the trunk, up towards the tail light wiring loom and then up and through the existing top metal channel area in the approximation to passenger side rear speaker deck. Leave enough wire so that a small section could be wound up and hidden so that in case I had to pull the switch out I would have extra wire to work with. I already had an existing ground connection for my LED tail lights so the ground source was close by. You may have to drill a small hole and use a self-tapping sheet metal screw for ground or run an extra wire back to the battery (-) terminal. A ground is a ground as long as it is clean! Once the test wiring was completed and everything worked pull the wires into place. Solder the connections between the switch pigtail and the wiring loom and shrink tube them (Don't forget to put the shrink tube on before you solder and close the wire ends). Next connect the battery and insert 4 amp fuse in fuse connector. Turn on switch and there should be a pretty LED sign and a red light on the LED Switch. If everything looks good, then wire tie all the wires neatly and button up the trunk area of the car in reverse order of how you took everything out. Clean up your mess, put tools away and go show that beauty off! Special thanks again to Scott Miller* at* http://www.jarheadbobandmax.com. Attached Images Last edited by Orange Krate; 06-07-2013 at 01:34 AM.