Quote:
Originally Posted by STUNNAH
The first question that must be answered is what the intent of you're is build???Do you intend to drag or road race the car???Do you just want more HP, etc???
If you're only seeking a slight increase in HP you don't need all the items you have listed...A simple stage 1 kit may be all that you need if your HP goal is to get near 600rwhp...Those items would be 2.55 upper pulley, solid isolator, plugs, 160 thermostat, belt, catch can and a tune...You don't need the mild to wild switch, which I think is a waste of $ when you can pull the fuse from the panel in the trunk to keep the cuts open...You don't need larger injectors at this point nor do you really need the headers, cats or tensioner, and I wouldn't see a need for any major cooling upgrade...Does your car currently over heat???
If you can tell us more about your goal for the car then additional info can be provided...Look at some of the sponsor websites and see what they have to offer Jannetty Racing, Lingenfelter Performance, and Vengeance Racing just to name a few that I'm familiar with...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d-mob
You are right, my apologies I didn't mention my intent of this build.
What I'm going for is more horsepower while keeping the car under control, I don't want my car to be abnoxously loud or too powerful that it doesn't hook well on the road. I drive my car to and from work on a daily basis and I live 22 miles away from my workplace. I get really confused with mods as everyone of my friends or people I ask seem to have their own opinion on what I should put or not to put in my car. My current goal is to get 600whp but bare in mind I don't drag race the car I just have some fun with the throttle every now and then so I said it to my self i'll get some headers installed first then I heard that if I install headers I will lose boost. So I'm gonna install a lower pulley and injectors and Ngk spark plugs along with the 160thermostat and heat exchanger and a proper tune.
But I currently have 2 issues I need to deal with. First these freakin stock tires don't hook for nothing,last night I floored it and the car just couldn't decide if she wanted to go right or left and some message appeared on my HUD (I think it's something to do with traction) .
secondly and on the same day I gave it a good amount of gas but the speedometer just kept the speed at 70 Km/h and the engine was making a sound like it wanted to increase the speed but there was something preventing it from doing so. I asked my friend who is knowledgable about this engine and he told me this happens cause I ain't got no traction at all so the car just can't hook on the road.
I really love the car but I also wanna enjoy it, so what about semi slick tires I asked him, he told me it's a good option but don't think about installing them in the winter cause if they get wet as much as a drop of water your gonna spin.
I want to get the best tires for the car to hook but I'm confused about that as well. I'm really sorry for the long post guys , but all your replies are appreciated
I'm also sorry if I don't reply asap cause of the time difference.
Thank you all for your support and efforts.
Peace.
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Now that you have clarified some specifics I would suggest that you do a simple stage 1 kit which will get you very close to 600rwhp...Is your car and auto or manual???HP is generally less with a auto than a manual...The recommendations I made in the previous post are the way to go...As far as tires that all in how you operate the car, there is no specific tire that is going to eliminate the car from spinning the rear wheels in 1st or 2nd gear on the street, it's all under the control of your foot...You may look for a brand that has a longer life and is a good all season tire...As for you speedometer sticking at 70km/h I have no idea, unless you're in a manual and were hitting the rev limiter which you should stop holding the gear and which to the next gear...The indicator that you saw was for traction control, if you don't turn it off it will show the swiggly lines in the drivers info. cent. not the HUD that is triggered due to the rear tires spinning...As far as a pulley swap and solid isolator stay with the upper pulley, because the snout has to be pulled to install the isolator and this will save you at least $700.00 verse going with a lower pulley...If you have your owners manual you really need to read it, so you can get a better understanding of how the car operates and what the warning signals mean, if you don't read the manual completely you're doing yourself and the car an injustice as it explains in detail the many performance setting of the car that you are not aware of...If you don't have a manual maybe you can borrow one from a friend, but you really do need to read it...You will be satisfied with a stage 1 kit...