Torque Converter Install: This part is really simple. Prelube the TC with 1/2 QT of trans fluid. Slide the TC onto the transmission input shaft. It will bottom out. Rotate the TC until it clicks once and moves 1/4". Rotate it again until it clicks and moves again. Then rotate it a third time until it clicks into place. This is fully seated (3 clicks). It is very obvious when it clicks in the 4L80.
INSTALL (PUSH OR LIGHTLY TAP) THE CONVERTER PILOT EXTENSION INTO THE MIDDLE OF THE FLEXPLATE AT THIS TIME. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP, ITS A PAIN IN THE ASS WITH THE TRANS IN PLACE.
Now go ahead and bolt the transmission+tc into place at the engine bellhousing, and crossmember.
(Note: It is easier to raise the transmission into place with the dipstick preinstalled. While this is not necessary, it WILL save you headache later.) Now you have to attach the 6 TC bolts. Make sure you have 1/8" of clearance from the converter pads to the flexplate as shown in the below picture
Now is time to get the bolts started. Generally its tough to thread into the TC as the threads are tight to prevent looseness/backing out of the bolts.
USE LOCTITE ON ALL TC BOLTS
I found it easiest to get them started, then rotate the flexplate and tighten them in the bottom-most position. It's a tedious process as it's tight in there and you can only get about 1/3 a turn a time on the bolts. Sneak them in there by the starter (pictured)
Optional: You can remove the starter and let it hang, and that will give you enough room to get a socket on the bolts, one at a time. I still recommend you get them all started before you tighten any, however you may prefer using a ratchet+socket to a wrench, and if that is the case, then the starter comes down with two bolts (unhook battery, of course)
Another view on where you can fit them through the plate
It's impossible to get a torque wrench in there obviously, so get them good and tight and the loctite will do the rest of the work for you. Don't forget they all get washers.
Now you have to tighten the cooler lines to the case, and wriggle the dipstick into place if you haven't already. A buddy is helpful here.
Here's what the dipstick looks like in the proper position OUTSIDE of the car, for reference. You can see it uses the upper right bolt on the trans.
Note: You will want to kill yourself when you are struggling with the dipstick. I promise you, however, it WILL FIT. These pictures are proof
The orientation from the topside
Lastly, slide the shift linkage into the shift mech, and bolt it to the side of the transmission. On the shift bolt, all the way clockwise is park. Make sure you are in park in the console, and on the transmission when you bolt this in. Once its bolted to the transmission, tighten the lock bolt on the shifter and you are done.
At this time you should also plug in your transmission controller and harness. Mine sits in my console, but you can put it anywhere you like. I put a 1.25" holesaw cut in the floorboard and installed a grommet in the floor pan. This is how I run the cable into the car. (Not pictured)
Last, the driveshaft. (Thanks
Driveshaft Shop) Install the adapter plate to the rearend using a 10MM allen key.
USE LOCTITE
Next, lube up the yoke end (transmission end) with a thin coat of trans fluid to help it slide in past the seal and push in till seated.
Finally, bolt the driveshaft to the rearend via the adapter plate. 6MM hex, with lock washers. Loctite optional, recommended.
Congratulations, you are finished with your swap. Start the car in park, and check trans fluid levels/add fluid as necessary. Once fluid level has settled in an acceptable range, it's time to go for a drive
