Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR guy
Sway Bars - As you continue to push your car you will get more comfortable with it. When you are ready to remove the understeer completely and neutralize the car all you have to do is put your rear bar on the stiffest hole (leave the front bar where it is). Our bars are designed so that when replaced together and using the same holes front-to-back, the overall roll stiffness is increased almost equally (slightly biased towards the rear). To effectively remove the understeer completely just stagger the mounting positions so that the rear bar is one setting stiffer than the front.
Alignment - You mentioned that you kept your alignment stock because "Street qualities are more important for me than track qualities". I can understand your thought process however a performance alignment will make a huge difference in how the car feels on the street or the track. If you set your car to our "Performance Street" alignment settings listed HERE, I can guarantee you the car will feel noticeably better and have very minimal impact on your streetability (slightly increased treadwear).
Just one other thing I noticed when looking at your pictures is that the rear sway bar is on upside down. The very slight bend on the outer lever arms mimics the OE curve and should face upwards. This will probably never be a problem on a stock height car but if you ever lower it, the bar can contact the subframe if you don't flip it over. |
Today I decided flip the sway bars since my original install was upside down. Also I decided to tighten up the rear bar while I was under there. I used my race ramps and removing and installing the rear bar was easy with the ramps.
I drove around for a while and took a few curves. No more push! Now i will have to be careful exploring the limits of my SS the next time at the track. But the improved cornering feel is worth it.
Now I wonder. If i do later go to the same size tire front and rear would I go back to the middle sway bar setting?