Quote:
Originally Posted by blake-b
I put my engine and trans back in today along with a ZR1 clutch kit. I used an alignment tool and it would go in easily except for the last 1/4" or so. Then it would stick for the first 1/4" when removing it.
Guess what, I was able to get the trans about 1/4" from the engine and it will go no further. I had one person pushing, one pulling, and I was wiggling it from the side. No go.
I gave up for the night. I did not replace my pilot bearing (I actually forgot to) and it has 12K on it. I also didn't use the bolts to pull the trans to the engine.
Any tips? I guess I will remove the trans, double check the alignment although I used the tool, eyeballed it after everything was bolted down before attempting the tranny install, and even turned the trans out put shaft when installing to make sure the shaft lined up with the clutch and PP.
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Had the same problem when I put ZR1 clutch in last month. Pilot bearing should be ok. I didn't change mine (3600 mi.). Just smear a little grease on pilot if trans is back out. Get trans within 1/4" like you did before. Start 2 bolts in beside locating pins that mate bell housing to engine to be sure everything is lined up. Make sure jack under trans is supporting it and trans is not completely hanging. The next step is what took 2 hours to figure out. Use a pry bar and thin block of wood between the crossmember and the oil pan. Wiggle the engine up and down with the bar while at the same time having someone push the trans toward the engine while slightly rocking it up and down. If it doesn't want to go in right away, move the jack a little up or down and try again. Rocking the engine like this and not just the trans is what worked for me. I still could not get all the 1/4" gap out completely, but once it's close enough (1/16" is good) that you know it's on the pins, you can use bolts to draw it together. Just don't force the bolts. If they are tight, slightly rocking the engine up and down while turning them in will help. Good Luck!