Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman
I have a couple alignment questions that hopefully someone here can help with.
After I lowered my car I had it aligned and asked them to loosen the bushing points, drive the car slowly, and then align. They told me that they do that but don't drive they car, the just shake it a little. I don't remember seeing them do this but I wasn't watching the whole time.
The car does ride a bit rough sometimes. I think part of it is just being a performace car but I'm not sure that some of the bounce isn't coming from the bushings not being done right. It's to the point that I'm thinking about paying to have an alignment done again but obviously I don't want to waste my money.
Can anyone give me a little more specifics on which bolts need to be loosened and if just shaking the car is good enough? I would like to take a copy of whatever is posted to the alignment guy and show them what is suggested so that we will be on the same page. I haven't found a thread out there that gives the specifics on what to do.
My other questions is that I'm thinking about putting the OEM 20x9 and 275/40 on all four corners. Do you think it's necessary to align after doing that?
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It is difficult, though not impossible, to bounce a car through the full range of articulation. Going over the bumps in a shop driveway starting with the transition from shop floor to driveway is more thorough.
Which Bolts to Loosen
Front Inner Lower
Front Radius
Rear Inner Lower
Trailing Arm Knuckle
Trailing Arm Front
Toe Link -- both ends
Lower Rear Strut
Changing wheels does not require a new alignment.
Some companies dirrect you to cut bumpstops. If the instructions say cut and the installer doesn't cut them that can create a poor ride quality. Before we re-engineer or re-build the suspension it would make sense to get the bushes re-timed and the car re-aligned.
Once other question. Are you on OE wheels and tires? If not please post the details of your setup.