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Thanks for the advice, this forum is a wealth of it. I understand the process and how to make panels look like glass, and how to care for them. I'm just on the fense about the performance differences between the waxes.
About 5 years ago I did some comparisoin testing with a few readily available car waxes. I used the CASS and humidity exposure tests, modified with out the scribes ,as I was looking at how long the 'treated' surface would bead water off when compared to a coated 'untreated' surface. I was looking at an automotive powder acrylic clear coat. Granted these tests are extremes but I found that all the waxes held their ability to bead water and keep if off the surface for about 48 hours after that the water beads stuck to the surface and hazing began to appear. From that I decided the ones I tested performed about the same and that there were no real long term durability advantages to applying a wax, only short term cosmetic improvements.
My theory for the test was that as long as the water would bead off of the panel, the surface tension remained high enough to prevent a contaminant to adhere. So, as a result when the water no longer beaded off the surface, a contaminant would adhere allowing for damage to the part.
As this was an off the cuff thing at the time, done for fun by a couple of coating guys we did not look at any of the high end waxes. We were basically board and had a few extra slots in my lab during some test runs. I kinda which I still had the lab as it would be interesting to re-visit it now and actually do a formal test run. Do you know if Adams has done any testing such as this?
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